Wednesday, August 31, 2016
Build a Tiny (Unstable) Bugging Device
We don’t know who the [amgworkshop] wanted to listen in on, but they apparently went searching for a small FM wireless transmitter. There’s plenty of circuits around, but they wanted something smaller. The original circuit had a variable capacitor to tune the output frequency. The new design uses a fixed capacitor and a spring for an antenna. You can see the build steps in the video below, but don’t expect a lot of frequency stability or fidelity out of a single transistor transmitter.
The parts list is minimal. In addition to a coin cell holder (which serves as the construction base), you need a transistor, two resistors, three capacitors, a homemade inductor (very easy to make with some wire and a drill bit), and an electret microphone. Of course, you need a battery, too. The whole thing is potted with hot glue.
If you want a better circuit (and longer battery life) you might look at [Angelo’s] similar build. Not quite as tiny, though. There’s no shortage of other examples out there, many using different construction methods.
Filed under: radio hacks
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Tuesday, August 30, 2016
Monday, August 29, 2016
Why You Should Be Prepping… No Matter Who Gets Elected
by Ryan
The most heated topic of discussion right now is the upcoming election for president. The general consensus is that neither candidate is ideal. Neither candidate has the true support of their party or the support of the public. No matter who is elected, expect chaos when the winner is announced. Whether you are pro-Hilary or pro-Trump, please keep prepping. There are dozens of reasons why we could face a SHTF scenario no matter who is running the country.
One of the biggest reasons preppers prep is because of the actions that our government may take. Their actions could set off a chain reaction leading to EMP blasts, nuclear war, economic collapse, mainland invasions, terrorist attacks, civil unrest, and martial law. Any of these scenarios could require you and your family to board the windows or head for the hills. That being said, one of the largest influences on government actions are the directives of the Oval Office.
Hillary
We will first look at Hilary Clinton, her past, her stance on the issues, and how she could affect us as citizens. The first concern we need to address is her track record of horrible recommendations during Bill Clinton’s presidency. She was placed in charge of making recommendations for the Attorney General. Her first two suggestions were forced to remove their names from the list of potential candidates and her third suggestions was Janet Reno.
Janet was what Bill called “my worst mistake”, and she was in charge of the decisions leading to the massacre in Waco Texas. Hillary made suggestions for the head of the Treasury Department, Justice Department, White House Staff, Director of White House security, and Civil Rights Commission. These individuals were forced to resign, sent to prison, investigated for improper access of FBI files, and forced to withdraw. These are just the decisions she influenced as the wife of the president. Imagine what would happen if she was in charge of appointing those that run our military or influence our economy.
Perhaps a more concerning issue is her nonchalant attitude regarding the law and the handling of sensitive information. The most discussed examples of this are her email scandal and the Benghazi attack. If you are not informed, Hillary was accused of using separate email servers so she could be selective about which emails to turn over to the justice department. She was also accused of deleting emails with sensitive information. As for Benghazi, she is accused of risking the lives of US soldiers my misreporting the nature of the attack on the US embassy in Benghazi.
However, there are several examples with which you may not be familiar. During a television interview she was given a classified message regarding the capture or death of Gadhafi. She felt it appropriate to joke about this classified information on the air. She also retaliated against several members of the US Travel Office when they would not approve one of her requests. She had three members fired and arrested.
None of the men were convicted, but they were still out of a job. Probably the oldest example is a quote from her days as a lawyer in 1975. She had just defended a man she called a child rapist and had him acquitted. She was joking about it and seemed happy knowing the individual she identified as a rapist was being set free. Hillary seems to have no regard for the legal system or proper behavior for somebody in her position.
Hilary is also pushing to control or eliminate our right to bear arms. She has made it clear that she will appoint Supreme Court Justices that will enforce all-out gun bans. In addition, she has advocated an extreme tax on gun purchases, an expensive and overly sensitive application process, and the ability for gun sellers and manufacturers to be liable in the case their weapons are used to kill someone. This would be like suing a car company for traffic deaths or a fast food chain for heart disease. She obviously has extreme views on the subject.
It is obvious that Hillary will do what is needed to get her way. She will manipulate the system without batting an eye. Between her poor judgement of character and her deceptive nature, Hillary’s election could equate to a SHTF scenario quickly.
She would be the type of president that may manipulate the military to control US citizens or to act in other countries on her behalf. She may also appoint individuals to positions in the military or financial sectors that are not capable of doing their jobs. This could result in a cold war with Russia, a US financial collapse, or WWIII. With her stance on the 2nd amendment, we would likely have no firearms with which to defend ourselves if martial law was implemented or if she drew an attack on the US from other countries. There are plenty of reasons to keep prepping if Hillary is elected.
Trump
Next, we can discuss Donald Trump, his history, and his general nature. Trump is confrontational in every sense of the word. He has a track record of making statements that put other countries on high alert. Trump has no sense of diplomacy and has made many enemies. These enemies in turn become enemies of the United States. Despite the image of a successful business man, he has also had his struggles. He ran three separate business into bankruptcy during his career. Trump also seems to be a bit too open to the option of using nuclear weapons. He could just as easily put us in a SHTF situation.
The interesting thing about analyzing Trump is that it is difficult to look at the facts. He has never been a politician before, so we have no political track record to review. Because of that, we have to look at what he has done as a businessman and what he has done during the presidential race. It ends up forcing us to compare apples to oranges, but there are some cues as to how he would run our country.
We can first look at his track record as a businessman. He has overall been very successful and has generated billions of dollars in profit. However, there are a few facts we cannot overlook. First, he is not the conventional American dream story. He inherited much of his wealth from his father. He has managed to run successful businesses and the net effect has been impressive, but he has also had several ventures fail. There have been three major business that were driven into bankruptcy, and several small business he had to abandon. Also, he has proven that he will do whatever he feels is necessary to be successful. This includes forcing people out of their homes to build his businesses, going against his general principles to save money, and badmouthing anybody in his path.
Next, we have to look at his overall personality and views. This may be the biggest issue with Donald Trump. He has made it clear that he does not support minorities. This could easily lead to civil unrest and even civil war if he applies those opinions to policy. He has a hot temper and very little knowledge of policy, so the diplomatic process with other countries could be sketchy at best.
Trump has made it clear that he is anti-Israel, anti-Mexico, and anti-Russia. Voicing those opinions publically could lead to the next world war. He has the tendency to make promises he cannot keep and has no filter between his mind and his mouth. Not only could Trump be a diplomatic nightmare, but he could cause us to lose the respect of our allies. He has even been quoted as stating that he would consider using nuclear weapons on Mexico, Russia, and even our Western European allies if he felt it necessary. His instability is a major concern.
From this we can look at what Trump might do with our country. While there is a good chance that he could improve our economy, he is also proposing some very risky moves that could drive us into the next great depression. Trump is proposing massive import taxes that could ruin our economic relations with countries like China. If his moves in the White House represent his views, there could be rioting to the point that martial law is implemented. Probably the most likely concern is that he could destroy relations with other countries and push us into a war in which we need not be. Despite no political record of making huge mistakes like Hillary, Trump still poses a major threat.
So let us review. Both candidates have made shady deals. Both candidates could destroy our relations with other countries, either directly or indirectly. Both candidates could take action that would destroy our economy, and in turn the world economy. Both candidates have made promises they cannot keep and statements that are not true. I think it is fair to say that either candidate could cause everything to fall apart.
However, perhaps the greatest reason to keep prepping is that the election is only a small part of the reason why we prep. Sure there are several scenarios where politics could cause us all to head for our bunkers, but let us not forget that Mother Nature is just as likely to rip apart our society. There are several ways that natural disasters could send us back to the dark ages.
With increased seismic activity in the last few years, it is only a matter of time before the San Andreas and New Madrid faults produce a major earthquake. It is impossible to predict earthquakes, but there are some clues that help us determine where and when quakes might happen. If we look that the location of recent systemic activity, it shows us that a large earthquake in the US could very well happen in the near future. A large San Andreas quake would wipe out the west coast and displace millions of people. The last time the New Madrid fault produced a major quake, it reversed the flow of the Mississippi. Because of the nature of the bedrock in the Midwest, a New Madrid quake could be felt all across the US. Recently there have been some minor quakes along this fault for the first time in years. In addition, the US government has publicly posted seismic activity for the last several decades. Recently they have taken down this information. One can only assume that their intention is to avoid a panic based on the increase in activity.
Volcanoes could also be devastating in the next few years. The last major eruption in the mainland US was Mt. Saint Helen, so people may have started to assume that volcanic activity is not a major threat. Think again. Scientists have found recent activity in the Yellowstone Caldera. This is a vast volcanic field spanning hundreds of miles and centered below Yellowstone National Park.
Recently we have seen new steam spouts popping up in the area and have even seen rivers changing color from the sulfur being spewed into the water. These are indicators that there is new movement below the service. An eruption of the Caldera could destroy the entire US Northwest and dump 12” of ash across everything east of the Mississippi river. An eruption could be caused by a San Andreas quake or it could happen on its own. Predictions are that an eruption will happen in the next few decades, and it would be devastating.
Tsunamis and tidal waves could wipe out our coastal areas. Seismic activity in recent years has caused an increase in tsunamis around the world. These events have wiped out several countries and killed hundreds of thousands of people. It is feasible that one of these could hit our east or west coast and destroy thousands of miles of coastline. Tidal waves are caused by large chunks of land falling into the ocean displacing massive amounts of water, and they are just as deadly as tsunamis. In some cases the waves are significantly larger. There are several places around the world where large chunks of rock are hanging by a thread such as the Canary Islands. With recent seismic activity, it would be very possible for these rocks to fall and create waves several hundred feet tall that would batter our coastline. Both tsunamis and tidal waves are both very possible scenarios.
Of course there are the more common natural disasters that we have almost gotten used to that could strike any given city at any time. Hurricanes have been increasing in frequency and strength and have thrashed the US in the last few years. Hurricane Katrina and hurricane Sandy both did billions of dollars of damage to the areas they hit. If you live on the east or gulf coasts, plan for this scenario to happen again.
Think you are safe because you live away from the coast? Think again. Tornados have increased in frequency and strength and are flattening entire cities on a regular basis. The deadly tornado in Joplin, MO a few years back hit way too close to home for me. Flooding has also become a major issue and anybody close to a river has the potential for this issue. Weather patterns are just becoming harder to predict.
Wildfires are burning constantly in several parts of the country and are driving people to evacuate their homes. The recent wildfire in Canada reminded us all of the devastating force that is possible. Drought conditions continue across much of the US are causing crops to fail and farmers to go bankrupt. FEMA recently ran drills to determine the effects of a 10 year food shortage which they predict starting in the next few years. No matter which way you turn, Mother Nature has a way to make SHTF.
Even diseases seem to be spreading more rapidly. We can all think of examples of diseases that have consumed several parts of the world. More and more we struggle to come up with vaccines and treatment for these diseases. With the recent Zika outbreak, it reminds us that these illness can make it to mainland United States. It would only take a few mutations for these bacteria and viruses to spread around the world and kill millions of people.
The point is, no matter what happens we do not stop prepping. We live in dangerous times and the likelihood of a major event causing us to be forced into survival mode continues to increase. If your purpose as a prepper is to be prepared, then be prepared for anything. Focus on skills that can help you in any of these scenarios. Stash supplies that could save your life no matter what causes the disaster. Nobody can predict what will happen in the future, but that is really the whole point. Just be ready for whatever may come our way.
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Sunday, August 28, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | How Should I Work Around A Busy Schedule?
So I am about to enter school and will have quite a busy schedule. I had pretty much forgotten about lucid dreaming or anything like that for years until recently a friend mentioned it. I have never succeeded with lucid dreaming but now, being older and more focused, I would like to give it another go. The only issue is that I have to wake up at 6am every day, and assuming I have the time to dream journal, I am pretty much going to be busy until 4pm with no time for dream-related mental exercises, and unfortunately I often don't get a full 8 hours of sleep. What do you guys recommend for the best way to achieve lucid dreams?
Side note: In the past I have done an RC in a dream, said to myself "oh it's a dream" and still not become lucid, and I often am aware I am dreaming but somehow not lucid. Does this mean I am like resistant to lucid dreams or something?
Side note: In the past I have done an RC in a dream, said to myself "oh it's a dream" and still not become lucid, and I often am aware I am dreaming but somehow not lucid. Does this mean I am like resistant to lucid dreams or something?
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Lucid Dreaming | Is this correct self awareness?
I've been trying to keep self awareness as simple as I possibly can. Anyways, here's what I came up with. Please let me know if you think it'll be effective in providing frequent lucids if I stay consistent with it and dream journaling.
Awareness practice: Constantly, throughout the day, non stop, I try and remain in the moment by just paying constant attention to everything I am doing and my surroundings as I go throughout my day. While doing this, I keep the idea in mind that I could be dreaming at any given moment. This keeps a part of me aware, and another part of me skeptical to my reality at the same time. If I find myself unaware, I gently bring my attention back to what I'm doing and to the fact that I could be dreaming, as well as my surroundings. I just try to make it my goal to stay off auto pilot and just pay attention to myself all day and my surroundings. Paying attention to myself eating, watching a TV show, brushing my teeth, and while doing all this I am aware of the fact that I very well may be dreaming. My idea is that if I practice this every day, this mindset will bleed over into my dreams and start to grant lucidity. I'm thinking that once this mindset bleeds over into my dreams, it'll be very obvious that I'm dreaming since dreaming feels different from being awake, things may not make sense, and weird shit just may be happening lol. The idea is that if I stay consistent with becoming lucid in waking life, I'll start to naturally become lucid more and more in dreams as this mindset starts to bleed over more and more.
Is this effective awareness? I'd like to keep it this simple and not have to add in other things lol. This works well for me but I just want to know if it'll be effective for dilds. I don't want to spend so much time on it every day if I'm not being aware correctly. Also I won't be doing any reality checks. I figure that since reality checks only work to increase awareness when you do them, I may as well just be aware all together. Only time I'll be reality checking is when I suspect I'm dreaming or already know I'm dreaming and just want to make sure lol. I'm trying to keep awareness as stress free as possible so I'd like to keep it to me just going throughout my day paying attention to what I'm doing and my surroundings, and being aware that I could be dreaming at any moment. Just staying off auto pilot as much as I can throughout the day.
Awareness practice: Constantly, throughout the day, non stop, I try and remain in the moment by just paying constant attention to everything I am doing and my surroundings as I go throughout my day. While doing this, I keep the idea in mind that I could be dreaming at any given moment. This keeps a part of me aware, and another part of me skeptical to my reality at the same time. If I find myself unaware, I gently bring my attention back to what I'm doing and to the fact that I could be dreaming, as well as my surroundings. I just try to make it my goal to stay off auto pilot and just pay attention to myself all day and my surroundings. Paying attention to myself eating, watching a TV show, brushing my teeth, and while doing all this I am aware of the fact that I very well may be dreaming. My idea is that if I practice this every day, this mindset will bleed over into my dreams and start to grant lucidity. I'm thinking that once this mindset bleeds over into my dreams, it'll be very obvious that I'm dreaming since dreaming feels different from being awake, things may not make sense, and weird shit just may be happening lol. The idea is that if I stay consistent with becoming lucid in waking life, I'll start to naturally become lucid more and more in dreams as this mindset starts to bleed over more and more.
Is this effective awareness? I'd like to keep it this simple and not have to add in other things lol. This works well for me but I just want to know if it'll be effective for dilds. I don't want to spend so much time on it every day if I'm not being aware correctly. Also I won't be doing any reality checks. I figure that since reality checks only work to increase awareness when you do them, I may as well just be aware all together. Only time I'll be reality checking is when I suspect I'm dreaming or already know I'm dreaming and just want to make sure lol. I'm trying to keep awareness as stress free as possible so I'd like to keep it to me just going throughout my day paying attention to what I'm doing and my surroundings, and being aware that I could be dreaming at any moment. Just staying off auto pilot as much as I can throughout the day.
via Lucid Dreaming - Dream Views - Attaining Lucidity http://ift.tt/2bPH6Zy
Lucid Dreaming | What brainwave entertainment to use?
Hello!
I hope this is the right place to post this :D
I read an article about brainwave entertainment (B.E.) and lucid dreaming. It seemed pretty good so I want to give it a try.
Basically, I want to know what kind of B.E. should I listen to BEFORE going to bed (This is when I meditate). Maybe you can give me a youtube link?
And then I want to know what kind of B.E. should I listen to before attempting WILD?
I am asking because there are many types of B.E.s on youtube(focus, lucid dreaming, sleep, luck etc) and I know that if I want to fall asleep fast should listen to DELTA or something and If I want to lucid dream then I would listen to a higher frequency..
I hope you get it and can help me :)
Is the usage of these correct?
Meditation before sleep:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfh6DW2gF3o
or
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_QKBHfeRw0
Meditation before WILD:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_QKBHfeRw0
I hope this is the right place to post this :D
I read an article about brainwave entertainment (B.E.) and lucid dreaming. It seemed pretty good so I want to give it a try.
Basically, I want to know what kind of B.E. should I listen to BEFORE going to bed (This is when I meditate). Maybe you can give me a youtube link?
And then I want to know what kind of B.E. should I listen to before attempting WILD?
I am asking because there are many types of B.E.s on youtube(focus, lucid dreaming, sleep, luck etc) and I know that if I want to fall asleep fast should listen to DELTA or something and If I want to lucid dream then I would listen to a higher frequency..
I hope you get it and can help me :)
Is the usage of these correct?
Meditation before sleep:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfh6DW2gF3o
or
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_QKBHfeRw0
Meditation before WILD:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_QKBHfeRw0
via Lucid Dreaming - Dream Views - Attaining Lucidity http://ift.tt/2bstT9h
Bombing The Sky For The Sake Of Radio
If you are familiar with radio propagation you’ll know that radio waves do not naturally bend around the earth. Like light and indeed all electromagnetic radiation if they are given a free space they will travel in a straight line.
At very high frequencies this means that in normal circumstances once a receiver moves over the horizon from a transmitter that’s it, you’re out of range and there can be no communication. But at lower frequencies this is not the case. As you move through the lower end of the VHF into the HF (Short Wave) portion of the spectrum and below, the radio signal routinely travels far further than the horizon, and at the lower HF frequencies it starts to reach other continents, even as far as the other side of the world.
Of course, we haven’t changed the Laws Of Physics. Mr. Scott’s famous maxim still stands. Radio waves at these frequencies are being reflected, from ionised portions of the atmosphere and from the ground, sometimes in multiple “hops”. The science of this mechanism has been the subject of over a hundred years of exploration and will no doubt be for hundreds more, for the atmosphere is an unreliable boiling soup of gasses rather than a predictable mirror for your radio waves.
Radio amateurs have turned pushing the atmosphere to its limits into a fine art, but what if you would prefer to be able to rely on it? The US military has an interest in reliable HF communications as well as in evening out the effects of solar wind on the ionisation of the atmosphere, and has announced a research program involving bombing the upper atmosphere with plasma launched from cubesats. Metal ions will be created from both chemical reactions and by small explosions, and their results on the atmosphere will be studied.
Of course, this isn’t the first time the upper atmosphere has been ionised in military experiments. Both the USA and the USSR exploded nuclear weapons at these altitudes before the cessation of atmospheric nuclear testing, and more recently have directed high power radio waves with the aim of ionising the upper atmosphere. You may have heard of the USA’s HAARP project in Alaska, but Russia’s Sura Ionospheric Heating Facility near Nizhniy Novgorod has been used for similar work. It remains to be seen whether these latest experiments will meet with success, but we’re sure they won’t be the last of their kind.
We’ve looked at radio propagation in the past with this handy primer, and we’ve also featured a military use of atmospheric reflection with over-the-horizon radar.
Fishbowl Starfish Prime upper atmosphere nuclear test image via Los Alamos National Laboratory. As an image created by an officer or employee of the United States government as part of their official duties this image is in the public domain.
Filed under: radio hacks
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Saturday, August 27, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | This could probably help with getting lucid.
I was thinking of a way or practice that isn't really discussed much on the forms for obtaining more lucid dreams. And I figured out something really interesting as well as possibly helpful for achieving lucidity. The method is simple, and takes almost no effort. It can also be accompanied by pretty much any other technique, and probably will actually increase success rates with that technique:).
So while thinking, I thought why not learn lucid dreaming like you would learn anything. That way would be to understand the process first. Just think back to learning anything. It's always easier when you understand the process or subject. Whether it be math, science, history, carpentry, bike riding, etc., understanding why and how to do something, makes it easier. So why not apply this to lucid dreaming;).
So finally what I believe will help in achieving more lucid dreams in a shorter time, no mater what technique or lifestyle you choose for attaining lucidity, is to understand or rather pay atetion to how you go to sleep. Its essentially just watching yourself go to sleep. This way you understand how you personally go to sleep. While continuing to pay attention for longer and longer each time you gather more and more information. By knowing how you fall asleep and even wake up, it could be very useful for techniques like DEILD, WILD, MILD etc. also I don't think this method is really considered a WILD. Although it could lead to one, the main goal is to simply gain knowledge and understanding on how you fall asleep, then use that to help yourself achieve lucidity.
So how should you go about doing this? It's really simple, when going to bed at night or during a WBTB, focus inward on your mind, and pay attention to what happens while falling asleep. Try to maintain just enough self awarness to watch this process happen. Take note of things like how your mind drifts and any sensations you may feel. Again your goal isn't to maintain attention untill a dream forms, instead just untill you fall asleep naturally. This should happen because the process needs to be treated like going to sleep normally, but this time you pay just alittle attention. It also may help to use some affirmations before going to bed to help you out if you find your loosing attention too quickly.
I've only tested this out a few times, so I can't guarantee that you'll have lots of success. So far I've noticed partly how I go to sleep each night and wake up naturally. I notice waking up before I'm actually fully alert and how my mind drifts off.
I think this could be a successful method that anyone could fit in with their routine. If anyone has any comments or feed back then that would be appreciated. Thanks :).
So while thinking, I thought why not learn lucid dreaming like you would learn anything. That way would be to understand the process first. Just think back to learning anything. It's always easier when you understand the process or subject. Whether it be math, science, history, carpentry, bike riding, etc., understanding why and how to do something, makes it easier. So why not apply this to lucid dreaming;).
So finally what I believe will help in achieving more lucid dreams in a shorter time, no mater what technique or lifestyle you choose for attaining lucidity, is to understand or rather pay atetion to how you go to sleep. Its essentially just watching yourself go to sleep. This way you understand how you personally go to sleep. While continuing to pay attention for longer and longer each time you gather more and more information. By knowing how you fall asleep and even wake up, it could be very useful for techniques like DEILD, WILD, MILD etc. also I don't think this method is really considered a WILD. Although it could lead to one, the main goal is to simply gain knowledge and understanding on how you fall asleep, then use that to help yourself achieve lucidity.
So how should you go about doing this? It's really simple, when going to bed at night or during a WBTB, focus inward on your mind, and pay attention to what happens while falling asleep. Try to maintain just enough self awarness to watch this process happen. Take note of things like how your mind drifts and any sensations you may feel. Again your goal isn't to maintain attention untill a dream forms, instead just untill you fall asleep naturally. This should happen because the process needs to be treated like going to sleep normally, but this time you pay just alittle attention. It also may help to use some affirmations before going to bed to help you out if you find your loosing attention too quickly.
I've only tested this out a few times, so I can't guarantee that you'll have lots of success. So far I've noticed partly how I go to sleep each night and wake up naturally. I notice waking up before I'm actually fully alert and how my mind drifts off.
I think this could be a successful method that anyone could fit in with their routine. If anyone has any comments or feed back then that would be appreciated. Thanks :).
via Lucid Dreaming - Dream Views - Attaining Lucidity http://ift.tt/2bWrfqV
Friday, August 26, 2016
Police Baffled? Send For The Radio Amateurs!
The police force in Evanston, Illinois had a problem on their hands. A mystery transmitter was blocking legal use of radio devices, car key fobs, cellphones, and other transmitters in an area of their city, and since it was also blocking 911 calls they decided to investigate it. Their first call for help went to the FCC who weren’t much use, telling them to talk to the manufacturers of the devices affected.
Eventually they approached the ARRL, the USA’s national amateur radio organisation, who sent along [Kermit Carlson, W9XA] to investigate. He fairly quickly identified the frequencies with the strongest interference and the likely spot from which it originated, and after some investigation it was traced to a recently replaced neon sign power supply. Surprisingly the supply was not replaced with a fault-free unit, its owner merely agreeing to turn it off should any further interference be reported.
The ARRL are highlighting this otherwise fairly unremarkable case to draw attention to the problem of devices appearing on the market with little or no pretence of electromagnetic compatibility compliance. In particular they are critical of the FCC’s lacklustre enforcement response in cases like this one. It’s a significant problem worldwide as huge numbers of very cheap switch-mode mains power supplies have replaced transformers in mains power applications, and in any center of population its effects can be readily seen with an HF radio in the form of a significantly raised RF noise floor. Though we have reported before on the FCC’s investigation of the noise floor problem we’d be inclined to agree with the ARRL that it is effective enforcement of EMC regulations that is key to the solution.
City of Evanston police vehicle picture, [Inventorchris] (CC BY-NC 2.0) via Flickr.
Filed under: news, radio hacks
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Lucid Dreaming | Body numbness and hypnagogic thought.
I thought I'd address two subjects in this post instead of making two different posts. I already know what both of these for but what I'm looking for is perhaps help in better understanding it and how to use it to attain lucid dreams. Both of these things I can attain extremely easily. In fact I wonder if it's normal or I'm gifted with hypnagogic abilities. The body numbness will come whenever I stay still and expect it to come. It's strange how it involves expectation because if I stay still to sleep or something and don't have it in mind then it won't happen. But I can do this pretty much anywhere. In fact I just did it while in fact I almost got my whole body numb in the passengers seat of a car just a few minutes ago. I know this can lead to lucid dreams if you get your whole body numb but I often just don't have the time to do it.
As for hypnagogic thought. I actually just learned of this term recently I didn't know what to call it before then. This one happens a little less frequently but will be more likely the more tired I am. I mean I had times when it's four in the morning and I'm falling asleep as I'm trying to finish something and the thoughts I currently have suddenly become warped and take on a life of their own. That's when it's most frequent but it can also happen in less extreme circumstances where I'm just laying down waiting to fall asleep and then it happens as well. The strangest thing about these thoughts is when I snap out of it they quickly fade from my memory much like a dream so I rarely remember what the thoughts actually involved. I do remember a couple of them though. One of them included me becoming human paint and I started splashing myself against the wall and as I'm doing it the wall becomes very colorful and beautiful. Another one involved me associating a gold storage from a mobile game called clash of clans with my emotional stability. Despite having these thoughts quite often those are the only ones I can really remember. I want to be clear that this isn't a dream some of you might suggest that it's a dream but it is not. I was definitely awake while those thoughts occurred.
So I was thinking that I could use these hypnagogic thoughts to have a lucid dream. It's difficult to time this though because these thoughts are very random and I usually end up snapping myself out of them before I think to use them.
As for hypnagogic thought. I actually just learned of this term recently I didn't know what to call it before then. This one happens a little less frequently but will be more likely the more tired I am. I mean I had times when it's four in the morning and I'm falling asleep as I'm trying to finish something and the thoughts I currently have suddenly become warped and take on a life of their own. That's when it's most frequent but it can also happen in less extreme circumstances where I'm just laying down waiting to fall asleep and then it happens as well. The strangest thing about these thoughts is when I snap out of it they quickly fade from my memory much like a dream so I rarely remember what the thoughts actually involved. I do remember a couple of them though. One of them included me becoming human paint and I started splashing myself against the wall and as I'm doing it the wall becomes very colorful and beautiful. Another one involved me associating a gold storage from a mobile game called clash of clans with my emotional stability. Despite having these thoughts quite often those are the only ones I can really remember. I want to be clear that this isn't a dream some of you might suggest that it's a dream but it is not. I was definitely awake while those thoughts occurred.
So I was thinking that I could use these hypnagogic thoughts to have a lucid dream. It's difficult to time this though because these thoughts are very random and I usually end up snapping myself out of them before I think to use them.
via Lucid Dreaming - Dream Views - Attaining Lucidity http://ift.tt/2c2QM4m
Lucid Dreaming | Natural lucid dreamers
Hello.
So i read a few posts of what natural lucid dreamers do.
What do they actually do?
Are they conscious whenever they sleep?
Or do they become aware when they are dreaming only?
How do they exactly become lucid?
Is that like sleeping and going to dream and saying i am in a dream now?
Or is it like sleeping and waiting for a dream?
Thank you.
Maybe natural lucid dreamers do different things to become lucid but if you know something about it or you are a natural lucid dreamer or just want to say something you can answer :D.
So i read a few posts of what natural lucid dreamers do.
What do they actually do?
Are they conscious whenever they sleep?
Or do they become aware when they are dreaming only?
How do they exactly become lucid?
Is that like sleeping and going to dream and saying i am in a dream now?
Or is it like sleeping and waiting for a dream?
Thank you.
Maybe natural lucid dreamers do different things to become lucid but if you know something about it or you are a natural lucid dreamer or just want to say something you can answer :D.
via Lucid Dreaming - Dream Views - Attaining Lucidity http://ift.tt/2buumX0
Thursday, August 25, 2016
Wednesday, August 24, 2016
HF-Powered Drone Antenna
Amateur radio has a couple of sweet allocations in the VHF bands, but because the signals don’t reflect off the ionosphere like shortwave signals, the use is limited basically to line-of-sight. One workaround is to use a repeater with a tall antenna, but that requires a lot of infrastructure or a mountainside lair.
What if you could just fly your antenna up in a drone? Well, for starters, you’d run out of batteries pretty quickly unless you could power it remotely. And if you try to tether it, the supply wires end up being too heavy to lift. Or do they?!?!
This is where our story gets strange. [Glenn, n6gn] has built a rig that transmits significant power over distance using a very thin wire. The trick is to send the power at high-frequency down the wire, at which point it becomes more like a transmission line than a conductor. (We’re not 100% on the physics here.) The signal is rectified to DC on the other end and, in this case, used to power the quadcopter. Check out the video (embedded below) where [Glenn] walks through an early test setup.
[Glenn] isn’t quite there yet, but he’s been able to send almost 200 watts down 0.32 mm wire and he’s proven the basic principles of operation using balloons for lift. There are a few PDFs that get into more detail on [Glenn]’s website, and some of them are reprints of his articles in the ARRL’s QEX journal of experimental ham radio projects. These experiments are all conducted with ham-friendly parts and cardboard, so there’s nothing stopping you from trying this out yourself.
Thanks [Martin] for the tip!
Filed under: radio hacks
via radio hacks – Hackaday http://ift.tt/2bmyf0k
Preparing Your Home for a Fire
by Shannon
Every day, hundreds of homes burn to the ground. We hear it on the news channel and read it on the newspapers. The report usually comes with what caused the fire, who got injured and how long it took for the firemen to subdue the flames. House fires and wildfires can cause a ton of damages including the loss of everything you’ve worked hard for and in worse case scenarios, the loss of a loved one.
Being aware of the possibility that it can happen to your home is the first step in being prepared for the worst that can happen. The next step is to make sure that you have the basic knowledge that will help you make your home a place where you can escape if a fire does break out.
IDENTIFYING FIRE HAZARDS IN YOUR HOME
For some people, the most important step in being prepared for a house fire is to install smoke alarms and detectors. However, the flaw in this plan is that not everyone can afford the necessary equipment. Thus, the first logical step that can apply to any kind of shelter, from houses to apartment complexes, is to identify the hazards that can spread the fire faster that you can escape. These hazards include:
- Curtains
- Clothes
- Bedsheets and pillow cases
- Gasoline
- Oil
- Plants
- Wood
- Papers
- Appliances
- Flammable chemicals
Once you’ve identified that things that can easily catch on fire, place them at least three feet away from anything that generates heat including stoves, space heaters, fireplaces and outdoor grills. The farther the better. After identifying the hazards, some guidelines will have to be observed. This is to ensure that the fire will not start because of your own mistake.
- Never forget to turn off the gasoline after you’re done cooking. A simple spark can burn down the house because the gas is left open.
- Do not smoke on your bed. If the embers touch your sheets, a fire can start.
- Every time you leave the house, unplug your appliances to prevent accidental sparks. You will also have to unplug them when you experience brownouts and blackouts. Remember that a sudden surge of electricity can cause an explosion.
- Do not simply leave and wait for firewood and coal to die after use. It only takes the wind to start up the fire again and spread it.
- Talk to your children and family members about the dangers of lighting matches and using lighters inside your home.
While these guidelines may seem like common sense, not everyone in your house may not be aware of the horrors that fire can cause. It’s always better to be safe than sorry,
INVEST IN SMOKE DETECTORS AND ALARMS
The most dangerous thing about a house fire is the fact that it can happen in the dead of the night when everyone is asleep. Before you’re even aware of the peril you’re in, it might be too late. Thus, it would be wise to invest on smoke detectors and alarms. Include it in your budget when building your own house or make sure that it’s in your checklist when you’re looking to move into a new house.
Acquiring smoke detectors and alarms is not the last step in preparing for a house fire. It is a common mistake to assume that smoke detectors have a life-long battery and they become complacent. To remedy this, here are a few reminders and guidelines for smoke detectors and alarms.
- Make sure that there are smoke alarms on every level of your home. Having only one in your ground floor is not enough to ensure that it will go off the moment that a fire starts in the upper levels.
- Place a smoke detector in every bedroom, outside in the halls and every entryway.
- The batteries don’t last forever. Remember to check if it works every month. If it fails to work, replace the batteries as it should be changed every six months.
- Always have spare batteries so as to avoid putting off changing it.
- Most smoke detectors will have to be replaced every ten years. Check the replacement details of your smoke detectors with the manufacturer.
- Smoke detectors stop working if they accumulate debris. Do not put them in air ducts and make sure that you place them five to six inches away from the wall.
- Everyone in the house should be aware of how a smoke alarm sounds and what to do after so as to avoid panic.
- Don’t forget to put a smoke detector in your basement and in the attic.
If you have extra funds available, it would also be a great idea to invest in carbon monoxide alarms because this particular gas kills. Having a carbon monoxide alarm will help you find your way to a location with fresh air.
Another thing that you should have in your home is a fire extinguisher. Keep one within the immediate vicinity of fire prone areas such as the kitchen. Remember that you will have to exercise necessary caution to use it properly and prevent further damage. This means that at least one person in your household should know how to use one. There are conditions that should be met before using a fire extinguisher: the fire is not growing, the fire department has been alerted, the room is not smoke-filled and everyone has managed to escape the burning household. According to Red Cross, in using a fire extinguisher, always remember PASS:
- Pull the pin and hold the extinguisher with the nozzle pointing away from you.
- Aim low and direct it to the base of the fire.
- Squeeze the lever slowly and evenly.
- Sweep the nozzle from side to side not up and down.
MAKE A FIRE ESCAPE PLAN
There have been a significant number of fire-related deaths that is not caused by the fire itself. A lack of preparation and awareness caused some people to desperately jump out through the window and straight to their deaths. Knowing what to do in the event of a house fire or even a wildfire helps keep the panic at bay. Make a fire escape plan that is easy enough for the all the inhabitants of your house to follow. Here are a few guidelines for your evacuation plans:
- Know your statistics. Find out how prone your area is house fires and wildfires.
- Make a Plan A and Plan B. Not everything may go the way you want it to and making a backup could save more lives.
- Make sure that your fire escape plan has two exits from every room of your house. Falling structures may block one of those exits. Knowing where to exit in that event will prevent panic.
- Take into account the needs of every household member. If you have children or elderly, make sure that your fire escape plan covers what you will do to help them out of the burning house.
- If you live in a building or an apartment complex, know all the fire exits and the fire escape plans that the managers designated for each floor.
- Ensure that everyone in your home is aware of the plan.
- Do a fire drill at least twice a year to make sure that everyone knows what to do in case it happens. It will also help you devise better plans and find better routes.
- Include all the contact details of the nearest fire department and emergency hotlines in your escape plan so that at least one family member is guaranteed to reach out to them.
- Designate a meeting place. Make sure that it is far enough from the house to avoid casualties in case a blast happens.
- Know and be aware of the stop, drop and roll drill for when your clothes are burning.
- Keep your fire escape plan updated for every new circumstance (i.e., new family members or house extensions).
- Tune in with alerts and news to help guide you to where you need to go and what to do. Often the alerts will let you know of the direction of a wildfire which will keep give you ample time to evacuate.
MANAGE YOUR BACKYARD OR GARDEN
An unkempt backyard or garden can cause a lot of trouble during a house fire or a wildfire. When preparing for those circumstances, do not forget to include the outside of your house. It is a vital area as it is the goal of all your fire escape plans. Anything that can catch on fire within at least 20 meters of your house should be removed or cleaned. Here are the things you have to do in order to keep the outside of your house relatively safe from fire:
- Remove any overhead tree branches and leaves that covers the top of your house. You will have to cut them down to make sure that it adheres to the 20-meter distance.
- Mow your lawn every time you think the grass is too high. Preferably, you will have to do this at least twice a month.
- Pick up dried leaves and fallen branches as these things can quickly catch on fire. During the fall season, you will have to work twice as hard to keep your pathways and garden free of dried leaves and branches.
- If you’re into gardening, make sure that your plants are on a considerable distance away from the trees that are already there. Doing this will make sure that the fire will not spread quicker through a continuous line of vegetation.
- Make sure that there is a pathway that is free of grass, trees and any form of vegetation. This will function as a fireproof route to outside your house during house fires and wildfires.
- Clean your roof and gutters as those are where dried leaves and fallen branches gather. If left unkempt, it might cause your roof to burn faster than any area of the house. This will cause fatal blockages and your fire escape plan will fail.
- Do not leave chemicals outside. Store them in an enclosed shed.
- Check up on the electrical wires outside or hanging over your house. Do not leave an open wire. Call for assistance to fix it. An open wire can cause explosions which can endanger you and your family even when you managed to get to do your designated meeting place.
BUILD AN EMERGENCY KIT
House fires and wildfires can cause a severe loss of supplies which could endanger your well-being even if you managed to survive the disaster. A supplies kit will help tide you over for a few days or until things have settled and help has arrived. The most important thing to remember about your emergency kit is that it should contain enough supplies to help you last for at least 72 hours. Each person should have an emergency kit stacked in a bag that they can carry easily. Backpacks work great for this as it doesn’t get in the way like a duffel bag does. Here’s a quick checklist of the things your emergency kit should have:
- Non-perishable food like canned goods
- Bottled water
- A means for communication like a fully-charged cellphone
- Maximum of three sets of clothing (or pack according to how much your bag can carry)
- Radio to keep you informed and spare batteries
- First aid kit (bandages, gauze pads, adhesive tape, scissors, tweezers, antiseptic, lubricant, thermometer, non-prescription drugs and cleansing agents)
- All your spare keys including the ones for your car and house
- Cash
- Flashlight
- Whistle
- Blanket
- Copies of important documents such as birth certificates and passports (make sure all the documents are in a waterproof or sealed bag such as a Ziploc, it would also be a good idea to store digital copies of your documents in a flash drive to save space)
- Special needs
- Map of the area specifying evacuation routes and emergency shelters
Store your emergency kit in a place that you can easily reach and grab. It can be under your bed or along your escape route. Constantly remind your family members to keep their bags within reach. Help your family members develop a reflex of grabbing the emergency kit through constant practice of your escape plan.
House fires and wildfires are always unexpected. Because of this, an unprepared household will face many difficulties and are prone to panicking. Studies have found that you will have a maximum of two minutes from when you become aware of the fire to get out of your home. After that, you will be exposed to smoke inhalation risks and your chances of survival goes down drastically.
Being prepared is the key to surviving such disasters.
via ModernSurvivalOnline.com http://ift.tt/2bB9osT
Tuesday, August 23, 2016
How and to Make a Temporary Shelter
by Jonathan
If the SHTF and you find yourself in a situation where you are in need of a temporary shelter, what would you use? Sometimes it isn’t possible to rely on a pre-built shelter or dwelling, so you will need to be creative and able to use whatever resources you can. Or, maybe mobility is a necessity so being able to build quick and move is a factor.
In this article we will look at some popular and useful temporary shelter options for a bug-out-bag, prepping or survival situation. A temporary shelter should provide protection from the elements and a home base to gather resources and sleep, and below are examples of this philosophy.
Canvas Shelter
Canvas shelters include tents, poncho and tarp shelters. These are simple, portable and light options that can be built and moved quickly.
Tents
One of the best temporary shelters is a tent. They are portable, simple and light and won’t take up much space in your BOB for modest sized model. If you decide to use a tent, more expensive options can add space for less weight, making a tent and important investment for your bug-out-bag.
One of the best things about a tent is that it can be easily repaired or parted out. If a section tears, some duct tape or stitching can fix it; if a pole snaps a branch or cording can be used; if a section is unusable other parts can be retrofitted in. The rain fly alone has dozens of uses.
Poncho Shelters
A poncho shelter isn’t fancy or comfy, but it will get the job done. It will keep the rain off you while you sleep, the sun off you in the day and add a little bit of warmth. Importantly, it will give you the mental security of having a temporary home base after a relatively simple build.
A poncho shelter has been used in the military for some time as a quick and portable sheltering option. There are a few different ways to make a poncho shelter, but all you need is a large poncho, rope and stake anchors. Tie the rope between two trees and the ends of the poncho onto the rope. The other end is then staked into the ground with the hooded section in the middle. One side will be open, but it’s enough to keep you dry and free of sunburn in a pinch.
Tarp Shelters
A tarp shelter is the next step up from a poncho shelter and looks a little more like a tent. Like the poncho shelter, it won’t offer much in terms of warmth and comfort, but it will keep the rain from soaking you completely and the sun off your back.
To make a tarp shelter all you need is a tarp, cordage and some sticks for stakes. You can also add extra support by building a small a-frame around the tarp.
A tarp shelter is made by tying two cords between trees and hanging the tarp in the middle. From here, drape the tarp over the cord line and use stick to anchor the tarp down. I carry a tarp in my pack that has grommets and use these to anchor the stakes. You can also make small cord loops and tie one end into a grommet and another on the stake.
You can also make an a-frame by putting a straight branch into a y-shaped branch and tying it together. After this, you can attach this to the middle of your tarp shelter to add a bit more stability against the wind. I’ve also seen people use Mylar blankets on the inside of this type of shelter to add a little extra insulation.
Natural Shelter
In a pinch, there are natural shelter options that can be used. Sometimes gear will fail or maybe get separated, so these are good options to keep in mind.
Lean-to Shelters
A lean-to is similar to a tarp shelter but uses branches and leaves instead of tarp and rope. There are two basic types of lean-to, tree-supported and free standing.
As the name suggests, a tree-supported lean-to anchors off of a tree. This means there are less pieces involved in the build, but still the necessity to anchor a second branch into the ground. Between the two supports, a crossbeam is hung and tied, and then branches and leaves are rested and tied onto the crossbeam to make up the “roof” of the lean-to.
The free standing version does not use the support of a tree and has either a square or triangular opening. The square version uses two support branches and a crossbeam while the triangular version uses one branch and support beams making a triangle to the sides. The triangular lean-to is sometimes called an a-frame shelter.
Dug-out Shelter
A dug-out shelter is another military inspired shelter. A dug out shelter can be as simple as digging a hole, reinforcing the walls and adding a roof. The roof can be a tarp or a branches and leaves roof.
While a dug out shelter takes more time to build than a tarp shelter or lean-to, it has added benefits in terms of warmth, protection and size, as it can be as big as time or resources allow. While it is good as a temporary shelter, a dug-out shelter can be added onto make it a longer term option.
Caves and Trees
If you are moving fast and don’t have time to erect a shelter sometimes nature can provide one. Deep caves aren’t always the best option because they can be the home of wild animals, but a shallow cave or rock overhang would work well. Other times, the natural root structure of a fallen tree can be used, just make sure the tree is in stable position.
For natural shelters:
- Use fallen or hollow trees as a place to sleep.
- Find an area of dense tree cover to provide an instant canopy of thick leaves and branches.
- Get inside a shallow cave or under a rock overhang to stay out of the wind and rain.
- Use boulders or large logs to break the wind or as a “wall” to build a shelter.
Manmade Shelters
In an urban environment, manmade shelters include different options. If evacuating an urban area, a car will most likely be a temporary shelter option, but abandoned houses, industrial complexes and shipping container can also be used.
Shipping Containers
A large shipping container has been used by preppers as a sheltering option for years. Large, sturdy and able to be locked, a shipping container can be a temporary shelter used as you evacuate or move out of an urban area. Because they are used in industry, there is also a chance to find them around abandoned industrial areas.
Cars
Like a tent, a car can be the easiest temporary sheltering option. If you are lost in the woods or attempting to evacuate an urban area, you will likely have access to a car. In a survival situation, a car can be deconstructed and used for lots of different scenarios. If you want mobility though, remember to bring lots of extra fuel!
Cardboard Boxes
This is a sheltering idea where the saying “one man’s trash is another man’s treasure” is literally true. Using cardboard and cardboard boxes is a sheltering option that has been used by the homeless in many urban environments and can be used as a temporary shelter. By building a little foundation and roof and using duct tape or rope cording, a stable and dry shelter can be built.
Look for retail or industrial areas where large boxes will be discarded. Sometimes they can be quite large and thick, meaning they will keep out the elements and retain some heat. In the above video, a prepper built a cardboard house and it survived heavy rains and stayed intact for almost a month.
Dumpsters
It isn’t pretty, but if everything else fails and you’re stuck in an urban environment, a dumpster can do in a pinch. In a survival situation, everything should be considered usable if it it’ll get the job done and allow you to live another day. A dumpster will allow you to stay covered, warm and hidden in the city.
Where to Build a Shelter
Regardless of the situation there are some important factors to consider that pertain to survival. These include:
- Is the location close to water?
- Are there wild animals that can attack, sting or bite?
- Is there a food source of some sort?
- Are there any natural hazards like cliffs, steep declines, freezing water or dead trees?
- Is there the possibility of severe weather?
- Can you orient yourself based on landmarks or location?
- Try to make a shelter where you aren’t directly on the ground. If nothing else, use pine needles (as an example) to add insulation.
- Make the shelter as small as possible to limit build time, decrease the chance of failure and increase the amount of heat retention.
- If you want to be found, build close to a road, landmark or crash site. If you don’t want to be found, go further into the backcountry.
As part of your survival prepping, it’s important to map out areas around you to go to if you need to bug out. It’s important to have a working knowledge of temporary shelters like these listed above because they can be used in either a bug-out or backcountry survival situations.
via ModernSurvivalOnline.com http://ift.tt/2byKPgr
Monday, August 22, 2016
Sunday, August 21, 2016
Saturday, August 20, 2016
Friday, August 19, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | Unorthodox Method (Am I the only one who does this)
Hi, infrequent lurker here. I am able to get lucid dreams frequently if I am trying through DILD, but I also have sort of an unorthodox method for getting DEILD/WILD dreams. Basically, when I was a kid I would get nightmares a lot, to the point where I was afraid of falling asleep, and through that I learned to recognize the moment just as I was falling asleep. Generally I would accept that I cant wake up and allow myself to fall into a dream, but after learning about WILD and lucid dreaming techniques I realize when I am in that stage, if I maintain lucidity, I will enter Sleep Paralysis and potentially a lucid dream. So, with some practice I was able to enter a lucid dream from being awake just by starting to doze off, recognizing when my body goes limp, and riding out the sleep paralysis into a dream.
This has worked just as I fall asleep, during "WBTB" , and what I would call DEILD, which is when I exit a non lucid dream, another time when I can recognize the onset of the sleep paralysis state, and gain lucidity. This seems to be quite different from the normal WILD because I have never actually experience, or tried to experience a hypnogogia stage, rather I fall asleep normally and stop myself right at the onset of the sleep paralysis stage. Does anyone else do it like this, is what I am doing even considered a WILD? For the record I am still working on dream control and I have had some succeses and failures. My main problem, which I know is the major problem with this method, is I dont know when I will have the dream, and so I am often unprepared and can lose focus. Perhaps I can learn how to control it better though or apply my skills to the usual WILD method.
This has worked just as I fall asleep, during "WBTB" , and what I would call DEILD, which is when I exit a non lucid dream, another time when I can recognize the onset of the sleep paralysis state, and gain lucidity. This seems to be quite different from the normal WILD because I have never actually experience, or tried to experience a hypnogogia stage, rather I fall asleep normally and stop myself right at the onset of the sleep paralysis stage. Does anyone else do it like this, is what I am doing even considered a WILD? For the record I am still working on dream control and I have had some succeses and failures. My main problem, which I know is the major problem with this method, is I dont know when I will have the dream, and so I am often unprepared and can lose focus. Perhaps I can learn how to control it better though or apply my skills to the usual WILD method.
via Lucid Dreaming - Dream Views - Attaining Lucidity http://ift.tt/2b6yr1A
Thursday, August 18, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | ThreeRainbows' Workbook (PMC)
This is a personal workbook so that I can test out/go through my prospective memory course. Feel free to view if you like, but it's not really intended for anything other than personal reflection. Thanks! :)
----
1. Read:
Check.
2. List of relevant dream signs:
3. Why I want to lucid dream:
To face my shadow self / increase self-acceptance.
Short-term lucid dream goals:
1. Meet the "dog-face" woman.
2. Hang out with Bowie.
3. Work on stabilization techniques.
Why prospective memory:
I feel that this is an effective method for me personally, as it helps me to develop my critical-reflective attitude.
4. Reality check:
For the next two days, every time I turn on a light switch, I will look at and count my fingers. If I am missing, or have extra, digits, or if my hands look funny, I will know I am dreaming.
----
1. Read:
Check.
2. List of relevant dream signs:
- white feather
- jungle
- natives
- cookies
- broken keys
- broken staircase
- DB's facial prints (nostrils), like fingerprints
- David Bowie
- Mom
- R. (person)
- brownie on a toothpick
- butt in my face
- Gramma
- night shirt
- Ray
- pregnancy test: "perfect life"
- short stories
- hung up (phone)
- "bush"
- fort
3. Why I want to lucid dream:
To face my shadow self / increase self-acceptance.
Short-term lucid dream goals:
1. Meet the "dog-face" woman.
2. Hang out with Bowie.
3. Work on stabilization techniques.
Why prospective memory:
I feel that this is an effective method for me personally, as it helps me to develop my critical-reflective attitude.
4. Reality check:
For the next two days, every time I turn on a light switch, I will look at and count my fingers. If I am missing, or have extra, digits, or if my hands look funny, I will know I am dreaming.
via Lucid Dreaming - Dream Views - Attaining Lucidity http://ift.tt/2bifKek
How to Make Clay for Survival Purposes
by Megan
When you are faced with a survival situation where you have to bug out, you won’t be able to take all your containers, dishes, and tools with you. There just won’t be room in your backpack. Hopefully, you will have a bug out location already set up where you can store extra containers and tools, etc. But what if you don’t have a bug out location in mind? Or what if something unexpected happens and you end up living in the woods for an extended period of time with just the contents of your bug out bag to get by?
Perhaps a tool that you did bring with you gets broken or needs a repair and you need something to use in the meantime. Although making your own containers and tools out of clay is not something that you can do quickly, at some point you may need to take the time to make some pieces that will just make life a little easier.
What is Clay?
Mainly made up of igneous type rock, the crust of the Earth breaks down naturally to form clay. This breaking down takes millions of years and has been happening since the time of the glaciers. The three main ingredients in clay are silica, alumina, and water.
There are basically two types of clay, primary which remains intact in the place where it was formed and secondary, which is in some way moved from where it was initially formed. Secondary clay typically will have additional things added to it, such as mica, iron, or quartz. Clay can be different colors, depending on the type of soil where it is found. Colors range from white to gray in the damp, cold regions and in the arid, hot areas of the world colors range from brown to a dark reddish-orange.
No matter what color the clay is, it generally acts the same. The great thing about clay is that it is easy to mold by hand. It also becomes very hard or “matures” when it is heated to at least 1200 degrees Fahrenheit. Once clay has been fired to the correct temperature, it is then able to hold water.
Where Can You Find It?
Clay exists all over the planet. It can typically be found in water sources such as ponds or lakes. It can be found near the ocean shore. It’s most commonly found in the rocky, mountainous areas of the world but because the earth shifts, clay particles can be found in just about any region.
Find a place that becomes slippery when it gets wet or near a location where the topsoil has been cleared away for road repairs or some other building project, you will be more likely to find clay. Look for a muddy water where you can see clay along the edges or on the bottom. Test the clay for plasticity by scooping up a small amount and rolling it into a ball in your palm. If you can do that easily, then use the palm of your hand to roll the clay into a long tube. If you can wrap the clay tube around your finger without it cracking, then the clay should be suitable for creating containers.
What Can Clay be Used for?
Clay is basically dirt that is sticky, dense, and heavy. You can use clay to make cups, bowls, utensils, and even tools because once it is properly heated and matured, the clay dishes will be strong. Clay can also be used for construction purposes, such as building or reinforcing your shelter, making an outdoor oven, or a tile floor for your shelter. It can be used as a type of cement to hold other materials together or fill in between materials. It can be used when creating cob, adobe, wattle and daub, and ceramic. It has been used as cement or mortar for brick chimneys and stone walls. Specific uses for clay include:
- cooking outside over a fire
- Storing food
- Collecting and carrying water
- Use as a glue or cement to make an outdoor oven out of rocks
- zeer pot refrigeration
- Mixing medicinal herbs (mortar and pestle style)
- To sort and organize various objects
- Sealing off cracks in hand made shelter to help block wind and repel water
- To mix and hold cleaning solutions
- Collecting and disposing of waste
- Making primitive tools for use in a survival situation
Processing to Remove Impurities
Clay must be completely dried out and impurities removed before firing or it will crack and break. Once you dig wet clay, spread it out on a board in the sun for several days and then break it into chunks. Pulverize the dried clay with a large rock or even a large stick with the bark removed. Pick out any items that are not clay such as rocks, sticks, etc. Once you have a dried powder of clay that has all the largest impurities removed, add the powder into a bucket of clean water and let it soak overnight.
Use a piece of very fine mesh screen and pour the wet clay powder through the screen so that it filters down through into another container. Impurities you couldn’t see with your eyes have now been removed. Let this mixture settle so that you can scoop most of the water off the top. The more you filter impurities from your clay, the “purer” it will be and the more likely that your end container will survive the firing process.
Finish the processing as shown in this video:
Wedge the Clay
Once impurities have been removed from your clay, you need to wedge or mix the clay together so that it is in a usable form. Mix the clay powder with water to form a large chunk. Cut and fold the clay together over and over, typically about a dozen times, in order to mix everything together evenly.
Create Clay Slip
Use some of the clay powder and mix it with water to form a soupy mixture of clay called “slip”. You can use the slip as you are making your various pieces of pottery to basically glue the different pieces together and ensure that they will hold together.
Use Temper
Clay “temper” can be made from any pieces of pottery that don’t make it through the firing process. Break up and pulverize broken pieces of pottery into a very fine powder. This will be your “temper” for your next batch of pottery. You will add the pulverized temper powder to your clay during processing. Using “temper” when making your clay increases the strength of the pottery and reduces the likelihood that it will break or crack during the firing process.
Form and Fire Your Pottery
Once you have a clay that has impurities removed and is ready to work with, you need to form your containers or tools and then fire them to make them strong. Whenever possible, make more containers than you need, the firing process can be very tricky and failure rate can be as much as 50%.
The video below demonstrates the entire process from digging and cleaning the clay to forming your pots and firing them:
If you are truly in a primitive situation, here’s a video on how to make a clay skillet and other pottery to use for survival purposes using mainly materials found in the woods.
Tips for Working with Clay
- Clay that is too sandy or too rocky will be much more difficult to work with and will likely need purer clay added to it in order to make pottery containers.
- Let clay pottery items sit out in the sun for up to 24 to 48 hours before the firing process. The drier your clay is before the firing process, the more likely that your pottery will survive firing without cracking.
- Cover your clay items overnight to prevent dew from falling on it and adding moisture back into the clay.
- Organic matter in your clay (leaves, grass, etc.) will affect the end result.
- The more filtered or “pure” your clay is, the better it will do during the firing process.
- Clay can become sticky, so make sure that you have a way to remove the clay from your work surface without too much trouble.
- When firing your clay objects, make sure that your fire is as hot as you can get it.
- Let pots cool gradually. Clay objects that cool off too quickly will make a popping sound which means they have probably cracked or broken.
Build an Outdoor Fire Pit
In order to give your clay pots and other items the fortitude they must have to hold up under repeated use, you must carefully fire the clay. To do this you will need to build a fire pit. Dig a hole big enough to put all of your clay objects inside and with space to place wood all around them. Slowly heat the pottery by placing it around the outside of the fire and moving it closer a little at a time.
Build a wall up around the pit using large rocks or bricks. If available, place a grate over the fire pit and allow the pottery to dry on the grate for some additional time. Once the pottery is adequately dried out, place your items in the bottom of the pit and build an upside down pyramid of fuel, largest pieces of wood at the bottom with smaller sticks and kindling at the top.
Light the fire so it burns from the top down. It’s best if the fire burns as hot as it possibly can until there is nothing left but ashes around your pottery. Let cool slowly and completely before removing pottery from the ash. You may need to let cool for up to 24 hours or more so be patient. Once your items have been fired, you can clean them with a wire brush and water.
Knowing how to find, dig, and process natural clay is certainly a good survival skill to have. Keep in mind that clay has great water repellant qualities and can also be used as a sealant or glue when building a shelter, outdoor oven, or other structures. Although creating your own pots, dishes, containers, utensils, and tools from clay that you find in the wilderness may not be the ideal way because of the time involved, it is quite possible to do.
For those who want to be prepared for whatever may come their way, it’s a good idea to scout out and mark on your bug out map in advance any places where you find clay. If you find yourself in a bug out situation, without a container or utensil that you need, consider making your own clay for survival purposes.
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Wednesday, August 17, 2016
Tuesday, August 16, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | FAQ from Multiple LDers
Hey! This thread is kind of a FAQ for LDers. I am going to write down a bunch of frequently asked questions and answer them in a format the anyone can read and answer for themselves. Kind of like an open survey, but in a way that people can see and get their own ideas from as well as ask more questions. Please don't ask questions in this thread, PM people and ask them there. If you are answering the questions, feel free to add any questions to answer that you get frequently.
I am hoping that this will give some people some ideas on LDing and things... Not sure why I am doing this, but it is the thread I felt like posting. This thread is always relevant and I don't think it should ever be considered "necro posted" in the future since it is still going to be good info.
PLEASE only post your answers to questions here and questions like this here, I want it to be easy for people to read and see the answers to questions they want by different people.
- Age: 25
- Age when you started LDing: 21
- How long have you been LDing: 4 years and some change (June 12, 2012)
- How many LDs have you had: 1300-1400
- How often do you LD: about every night, probably 4-7 nights a week
- Average LD length: 10 minutes
- Longest LD: impossible to tell really since I believe in time dilation
- Longest it felt: a week
- dreams per night: 2+ if I have less than 2, it is a night I sleep very little
- Longest dream: impossible to tell since I believe in time dilation
- Longest a dream felt: 150 years, but that was definitely fake memories. 2 years of straight up time.
- Spiritual beliefs in regards to LD (physical, metaphysical, spiritual): I believe that a dream is a normal physical function of the body and that LDing is lumped in with that. It is cool and it seems to have all sorts of amazing things with it,
- DILD or WILD: Both, start with both and be consistent
- how often do you attempt to WILD: Every time I go to sleep
- How do you WILD: a balance between aware and unaware, an anchor is needed to keep your awareness at the right level.
- How often do you WILD: about twice a week
- How much time per day do you spend on LDing: about 15 minutes
- How much time do you spend on LDing at night: about 30 minutes if you count the WBTBs and things
- How much do you sleep per night: 6 hours, I LD much better if I sleep 7-8 though.
- How do you meditate: usually visualization, but I think of meditation as directed thinking.
- Do you use ADA: No
- Thoughts on ADA: A good idea, but I think that trying to pay attention to all things at all times is kind of dumb, because that is impossible.
- Thoughts on ADA-RC: I like the idea, since it is "pay attention to one thing at all times" instead of "all things all the time" you can please all the people some of the time or some of the people all the time, but you can't please all the people all the time, the same thing applies to awareness. I don't use it though since I am already good at LDing and am too busy and really bad at paying attention to do something like this.
- How do you stabilize: I breathe in slowly through my nose and rub my hands together
- How often do you need to stabilize: I try it at the end of my dreams, but if it doesn't work, then DEILDing also doesn't work. After learning how to DEILD after every LD that ends shortly, I don't think that it is "extending" a dream, but "saving a dream" like a last chance stabilization tech. After getting really good at it, I stopped worrying about how long dreams were going to last and suddenly, they lasted longer without me worrying about it,
- How many breaks have you taken from LDing and how long were they: none longer than a day or two
- Time dilation: I believe it is possible and that our perception of time is like our perception of everything else, and is dependent on your past experiences and present mindset. I don't think that it is a "processing power" of your mind.
- WBTB: always, many, mini, forever
- Coolest thing you have done in a lucid dream: All sorts of things. Zödra is probably my favorite, it is my persistent realm that I continue to go to and expand and meet and fight DCs. Here is more about it.
- Zödra: My World, its Rules, Regulations, and Explorations
- Links that you recommend:
- Thanks For All The Fish
- Mine is a little bit of a hack. haha.
Spoiler for Format:
I am hoping that this will give some people some ideas on LDing and things... Not sure why I am doing this, but it is the thread I felt like posting. This thread is always relevant and I don't think it should ever be considered "necro posted" in the future since it is still going to be good info.
PLEASE only post your answers to questions here and questions like this here, I want it to be easy for people to read and see the answers to questions they want by different people.
via Lucid Dreaming - Dream Views - Attaining Lucidity http://ift.tt/2aYUj55
Monday, August 15, 2016
How to keep your underground Survival Stockpile Safe
by Jack Woods
The best assurance of survival during a collapse is to be prepared, and to stack the odds in your favor. You can do this by planning to build in redundancies right into your prepper plan, by stockpiling many smaller caches instead of only a few.
The best redundancy plan is to use many caches, and then in the event of discovery or spoilage (when it comes to perishables or rust regarding metal items) you will have not lost everything in one shot.
You can do this quite easily with my caching system. I am telling you readers my system, because it works so well. I also think the best approach to a collapse of any kind is working together. “We often forget to do that in this world these days.” Our pioneer ancestors found it essential to life on the land. “Help thy neighbor.”
My System
My system of caching has been designed around the premise of redundancy. I have achieved this by never storing my entire cache in just one or two locations. You can achieve this efficiently by being mobile at the time of your caching, and mind you might consider whether you will be mobile during or after the collapse.
Conditions may be so extreme you likely you will not be mobile after a collapse, or in the very least you will be on foot at some point eventually. This is a factor to considered carefully regarding the locations of your caches. Before you develop this ultimate caching system, as a prepper you need to understand the conditions that you will be dealing with, when caching at your different sites, and bear in mind what the items you cache are.
Any caching system, no matter what the items are (that are being cached), will be susceptible to the following failures:
- Insect infestation and/or animal disturbances (Bears, rodents etc.)
- Summer Heat
- Winter Freeze
- Moisture infiltration (Leakage)
- Discovery by others (Due to disturbances of vegetation during caching)
- The inability to relocate the cache (By you or someone you trust to retrieve it for you)
Before I get into any detail regarding my caching system, I wish to layout the particulars you will need to consider first. For instance, this method of caching is more designed for remote areas such as we have in the rural settings where there is still considerable distance between you and your neighbors. This is to say, my methods may not necessarily be the best way to cache within urban and suburban areas, due to the factors of rediscovery by others. Such as being observed by nosey neighbors during the caching process. I have my reasons for bringing this point up, and I will elaborate more soon.
Considerations
The ideal caching considerations for me are these:
- Assurance against the above environmental issues, moisture, temperature, insects, animals, etc.…
- Deciding on the individual cache sites, using the above considerations
- Preparing the cache system for the field
- My big secret; and expediting your caching, by cutting down on your exposure in the field, thus reducing discovery by others
First the system
The best system I have devised over the years is as follows; this is using the most widely available material for my system of “Caching Tubes.” I have found this system to be foolproof so far; it is based around using large diameter ABS OR PVC style sewerage pipes and fittings, for the Caching Tubes.
Any contractor will vouch for the durability of these tough pipes. Not only are they tough, but also when glued up with the proper glue for the type of plastic, they are completely water and weather proof, and rarely come apart even under extreme stress.
Out here in the west of this great country, these ABS OR PVC pipes come in very large sizes, due to the oil and gas industry out here, and can be purchased in diameters up to 24 inches around. However, these large sizes are very expensive, so I only mention common household PVC pipes 6” dia., and under. These anyone can purchase at any hardware store or Home Depot. Obviously, the End caps are expensive.
A prepper can anticipate building one of these for $50 – $100 dollars a tube in the 6” PVC range, cheaper if you buy bulk or go together with a group. The end caps are the most expensive and may need to be order in.
I have found that most of what I personally need to cache in these sizes, can be repackage or broken down to fit into one of these 6” diameter pipes. The bottom end can be capped with a simple glued on end cap, and the top can be fitted with a standard watertight gasket and threaded end cap for easy removal, and then reusable.
(A tip here is fit the threaded cap on before packing the cache tube, as some threaded ends reduce the opening size trapping your items inside.)
Obviously, the length of each pipe is up to you and whatever you decide to cache in these Cache Tubes this will determine their ideal length.
Lets take for instance, a survival rifle, and the ammunition stored in a 4’ foot long Caching Tube. Depending on the model or design of rifle, it may fit easily in a 6” dia. pipe. These can be placed into a tube either whole, or broken down into its various parts.
This is done by disassembling the rifle, for instance a bolt-action rifle, can be processed by removing its stock from the barrel before placing inside the tube. (Remember throw in the screwdriver in for re-assembly.) In addition, some room should be left in the tube to hold sufficient ammunition for the weapon and maybe even a cleaning kit and survival knife, fire starter etc. The key is to pack them solid with anything you will need.
Storing food, in these ABS OR PVC Cache Tubes is also very practical as neither weather, insects or groundwater are going to affect the food inside these airtight containers. Besides, basic preparing methods using these caches, a truly dedicated prepper can use silicate bags to prevent moisture buildup or by filling the food Cache Tubes with nitrogen gas to eliminate any air and removing the potential for moisture, thus preventing fungus and molds from growing on the food or any rust in the case of metals.
My only concern regarding foods containing liquids and the prevention of freezing, such as with bottled water, jars, or canned goods being stored in cold climates must be stored carefully. Items such as these containing water must be stored below the frost line to prevent freezing and possibly bursting over time. I will elaborate more on how to do this a bit later, also on how to prevent this problem from occurring at all.
Limits to my system
Obviously, the only limit to what you can store in these containers, is perhaps the size restriction, or storing volatile fuels (Flammable liquids etc.). Although the danger of an explosion is not very real, mostly due to the lack of oxygen, or of a proper ignition source. These fuels could be prone to leakage I suspect.
Alternatively, a prepper could simply add a fuel treatment additive to a jerry can and just bury it instead, rather then one of these Caching Tubes. Fuels are not affected much by freezing (So not a concern per se), all though heat could cause expansion and some leakage of your jerry cans (Warning: In the case of the Caching Tubes I suspect the glue might fail from the fuel, and the rigidity of the tube may make it rupture under the expansion from summers heat.) PLEASE NOTE: I do not recommend storing fuel in these tubes.
How to prevent Freezing, and expedite caching
Here is my BIG SECRET.
The beauty of using these cache tubes besides their durability is the way they can be hidden. The quickest and most elegant method is to bury them, and to store as many as one can (virtually undetected), using a gas powered posthole digger to augur the holes. These can be rented from any construction rental store for a reasonable daily rate. One of these and a decent plan using an ATV to get around and you are set to start caching. (ATV can also be rented) The two man style augurs have bits all the way up to 12”, but you would need to be two very big guys to handle one of these.
I have based my design around the 6” augur and materials. These can also be dug by yourself with a single man augur, unless you are digging many deep holes, then two men are best.
Now I know the first thing to pop into every prepper’s head is this:
“Won’t an augur be somewhat noisy”?
The answer to that is yes, it will.
That is why at the beginning of this article I pointed out that this is more of a rural caching system. All though the noise from an auger does not sound much different from a gas powered mower, and I suppose one could easily do this in an urban or suburban environment as well. Just by mowing the lawn the same day you augur the holes, making sure your nosey neighbors see you mowing too.
The beauty for farmers is they can be done while you are doing your normal post digging.
Freezing in Winter
Now to prevent freezing you may need an attachment to allow you to drill below frost line. In my area this is 4’ feet, but that is the worse case scenario due to frost heaving, and according to building codes. If you do not know the depth of the frost in your area, you can get this from most weather station sites, or by Google searching the Internet, or just find it through your local building codes. The next question that I can almost hear from some of you preppers out there is this:
“How do you get the Caching Tube out of such a deep hole when you need it.”
Good question that depends on the type of ground it is buried-in. Remember, only items that you do not want to freeze need to be below the frost line. Bearing that in mind, in relatively sanding soil, they can be easily retrieved from depths of overburden of 4 feet or more, by fastening a chain or cable around the cache before bury it, and using an ATV winch or better yet a vehicle winch, and simply hauling it straight up from the hole.
If trees are nearby the cache hole, a prepper can use a simple pulley system or come-along to do the same thing. The best way to fasten this to the tube is to use a sturdy chain looped and bolted around the tube to create a “cinch” when lifting it out, this prevents the chain from slipping against the glued end cap and potentially breaking the seal.
I have personally used this method, and it works wonderfully well. If you are worried about metal detectors, simply tie a retrieval line to the chain and drop it in the hole atop the cache, and leave just the retrieval rope near the surface to pull up the chain or cable. That way all the metal will be at least 4 feet below the surface and out of the range of the metal detector. A good trick is to through some gum wrappers or a bottle cap near the top to through off the metal detector, once they find one of these they will not bother looking further.
However, in rocky or heavy clay soil this chain retrieval system might end up as a disaster. (You decide as this has never happen to me so far). Perhaps the hole is packed to tightly by rain and the cinched chain slips against the glued upper cap (This has happen to mine and the cap held no problem), then separating it from the cache tube, thus breaking the seal, and contaminating the contents. In these rocky situations, the best method is to fill the augured hole with loose debris, and just cover the top 6” inches with soil and/or foliage. In the worst case, simply dig it out by hand and haul it up.
For caches near the surface, just barely bury the top, and then you can unscrew the head whenever needed and take what you want from it, resealing it by using the threaded cap. This system has many possibilities and as I said before it is very versatile.
Digging the holes
The best method I have found to hide and prevent discovery of these caches is this; I carry a hinged 4’ X 4’ foot sheet of ½” inch plywood with a 12 “ inch hole in the middle of it. For a visual reference, it is simply a 4’ foot square sheet of plywood with a 12” inch hole in the center. I cut mine in half and added 6 sturdy garden hinges to it for convenience so when I carry it on my quad it is easy and portable. I have even added straps and made a pack board out of it, to hold the auger.
My procedure:
The area to auger is first cleared of ground cover in the case of the woods (Leaves and debris to be used later to conceal it when done), and the plywood rig with its hole, is thrown over the area to be augured. This plywood sheet is to prevent spreading of the lower soils during auguring, thus making it that much harder to hide when finished.
Most of you realize that the lower soil colors often are a different shade of color and this makes ground disturbance easy to detect for those trying to steal your cache. The soil is thus brought up by the auger pouring out around the hole and displaced over the plywood, preventing it from damaging the covering vegetation, and then leaving traces of disturbance. (Especially useful in grassy areas)
Thus, the disturbed area is never any bigger then the 12” inch hole in the plywood. A tarp could also serve this purpose, however I found that occasionally it can be caught up in the auger, or in the very least does not work as well as the plywood does when tiding up with a shovel after.
I can fold my plywood rig containing the final remaining dirt and simply dumping the excess into plastic pails to carry off to somewhere else to be distributed unnoticed (Note: There will always be extra dirt because of the displacement of soil due to the Caching Tube). Then simply put back the proper colored topsoil and cover with surface debris the same way any old trapper knows how to do, and blend your “set” with the surroundings to keep it hidden. The whole apparatus including the augur can be easily carried on an ATV and I have found this system works best of all.
You can imagine how quickly a dozen Caching Tubes can be hidden using a power auger in this way, especially if you, yourself have ever dug postholes with one of these augurs. They are very quick in most loose soils. Yes, sometimes you will encounter rocks during auguring, and may even need to abandon a hole because of these rocks. However all in all this is a very affective method for two people for caching many cache tubes in one day or a weekend of camping. Bear in mind that only caches susceptible to metal detectors, freezing in cold climates or ambitious cache robbers need to be deeper or below the frost line.
Remember the whole set up can be turned into a pack board also, in the case of hiking the augur off road. (I suggest that preppers cache off the trail at least 100 feet when burying things of great value.) The further off the trail the better, you do not want to lose your cache to a some wondering citizen and their Labrador retriever out for a walk one day. Bury them under a bush or in a creek for additional cover use your imagination.
Other ways these cache tubes can be used
Because these cache tubes are watertight, they can be submerged under beaver ponds, anchored alongside a boat mooring, or even buried in a swamp, etc.
You may even want to strap them beside the under carriage of your truck with some straps, such as along the frame, this is a great way hide items in transit when bugging out too.
The sky is the limit. The ideal application for these tubes is to bury them before you need them, and place them somewhere you can get to them when ready for that inevitable day. They are money in the bank.
The beauty of these caching tubes is that even if everyone is using this system of caching, it does not make it any easier to discover your cache. That is why I do not mind sharing my ideas with you the readers. Although I suppose the Government may start keeping tract of plastic pipe sales or augur rentals now.
Who really cares what they do anyway. Certainly bury things on public land might be construed as illegal, but caching is completely legal on land you have permission to be on.
Strategies you may want to consider
Immediate caching around your home is always a good thing. These should be cached items necessary in the event of a collapse and caches you are not so concerned about during government lock downs like during warranted searches or even warrantless ones such as during so-called martial law emergencies.
Reasons for remote caching should be obvious to you now, and should be available to you during a collapse when you need to bug out in a hurry. You cannot always carry supplies with you on the run. Roadside Check Stops might find and confiscate things like your firearms, and who knows what else.
A series of remote caches should be ready in areas you plan to escape to, such as nearby public lands you can access by foot or with an ATV if you are lucky enough to own one. Such remote wilderness areas are ideal, like public forestry’s and logging areas, game preserves etc. These are the ideal cache sites for this type of system of caching. All preppers should consider how readily accessible the Cache Tube system will be to them, and weigh this against how easy it could be for others to find your cache at any chosen location. If you suspect you will be on foot after a collapse, and in a desert zone obviously drinking water caches will need to be strategically placed within a days walking distance from each other for your survival.
Keeping track of your caches
Okay, I can hear you guys now.
“Don’t be daft, of course I can find my cache again, I have an excellent memory.”
Well what if you need to send someone else to retrieve it? You certainly do not want to bring the entire group or family, and friends with you when you go caching these tubes, or have more then one map out there. Besides, a map will be quickest way to loose all your caches to some bad guy out there.
Yes, modern GPS plotting systems are great, but these can also be compromised, and will be of no use at all, if an EMP blasts all the electronics out at your house, or the planets satellite network goes down.
Personally, I will use the GPS coordinates, and save them on flash drive, even though they are encrypted with 128-bit encryption, and not likely to be figured out by anyone, though they can become corrupted and lost. I of course know where all my caches are located, plus a very close friend also knows, they invested time and energy with me to bury them during the caching.
Yet, you know the old saying about a “SECRET”: it is something you tell only one other person, and eventual everyone knows it. So, tell no one about the important items until they need to know. The safest bet is never telling any one where all the caches are regardless of the reasons, unless they absolutely need to know.
So, make your maps, or plot them on GPS printouts. I suggest you use many maps showing only a few hiding places on each, to ensure you will not lose all the caches in one shot if some one finds a map or gets it out of you with some devil truth serum like my personal favorite “Single Malt Whiskey”. Then hide these maps away in anyway you see fit.
Drill out a coffee table leg and roll one up inside. Put one in some fake ice cream containers in the freezer, use a fake birdhouse outback or cache it in a cache tube in a hollowed out tree in the nearby woods, whatever is best, but never have all of them together in one spot. Maybe even give different family members the less important maps just for their safety. (Showing Water, and food caches, etc.)
I believe now, you are ready for anything.
“Good Luck,” From The practical prepper.
Jack Woods
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