Thursday, June 30, 2016
How to Build a Shelter in the Woods
by Nicholas
Building a shelter is one of your top priorities in any survival situation. Yes, you need water to keep you hydrated. You need food to keep your energy levels up. You need fire to stay warm and cook food. But a shelter ranks equally as high as those priorities. A good shelter will shield you from the elements and keep you alive, especially in severe weather conditions when just having a fire won’t keep you alive.
But let’s say that you’re stranded out in the wilderness without a tent, tarp, garbage bag, space blanket, or any other kind of a shelter-type building material. Are you supposed to just give in to extreme weather conditions?
The answer is no, and furthermore, it is possible to build a warm and secure shelter in the wilderness if you didn’t bring materials. In this article, we’re going to learn about a handful of the different types of shelters that you can build, simply using available natural materials in the wilderness. First, let’s talk about some factors to consider before you build any shelter.
FACTORS TO REMEMBER WHEN BUILDING A SHELTER
Location and time are everything when it comes to building survival shelters because these two things largely determine whether your shelter will keep you alive or whether you will die trying. Let’s talk about location first.
Safety is the biggest concern when it comes to selecting the location of your shelter. Avoid building in a location where dead trees or large boulders could potentially fall or roll over your site. You will want to build your shelter within walking distance of water, a basic necessity for survival, don’t build right next to a stream or river as your shelter could be swept away in a flash flood.
Finally, don’t build your shelter out in the open or on top of a hill. If you do and the wind picks up, your teeth will be chattering all night and you won’t get any sleep. Constructing your shelter at the bottom of a hill or a ravine could make you the victim of a funnel of high winds or a flash flood. Instead, build your shelter along the side of a hill in the flattest place possible, and in a place that is somewhat sheltered from rain.
The other major factor to remember when building a shelter is the time it takes to build them. Shelters don’t just spring up on their own in a matter of seconds. They take the time to plan and build, which is why you should set aside a minimum of two hours or more before nightfall to build your shelter. This will hopefully be enough time for you to determine the type of shelter you will build, gather the necessary materials, and then build it. Give yourself more time if you’ve selected a more complicated type of shelter, if resources are a little scarcer, or if you have a physical disability or injury that could impede your building process.
Now that we have learned about the different considerations to take into account when building any shelter, we will learn about the variety of different shelter options you have available and how to build each one:
A-FRAME SHELTER
The A-Frame is one of the most highly recommended shelters by survivalists due to its simplicity and excellent protection against high winds and rain.
To build the A-Frame, find a pole over six-feet in length. Find two trees roughly the same distance apart (6 feet) and position the pole horizontally between them. For extra security, tie the pole to the trees at both ends.
Next, gather a series of smaller sticks and poles and rest them slanted against both sides of the horizontal pole. Again, for extra security, you can tie the slanted poles together at the top where they meet. Next, gather dirt, pine boughs, and leaves and pack them over the slanted sticks for insulation. Also, use a pile of leaves to make the bedding inside.
Leave a large enough opening at one of the ends of the shelter for you to crawl through, and your A-Frame shelter is complete.
LEAF HUT SHELTER
Also called the debris hut shelter, the leaf hut shelter builds on the principles of the A-Frame, and while it’s more complicated and time-consuming to build, it’s also significantly more insulated and weatherproof.
Begin by finding a pole that is around ten feet in length. Prop it up on a tree fork, a stump, or a rock so that it sticks up in the air at a slanted angle; secure it with lashings or rocks. Next, set smaller poles and sticks that have branches along both sides of the pole just as you would do with the A-Frame. Set as many sticks and poles with branches along the sides as possible so that the branches intertwine.
Next, gather as many leaves, ferns, moss, pine boughs, and other kinds of vegetation as you can find and pack them along both sides of the leaf hut. Ideally, your hut should be at least two-feet thick with vegetation on both sides. Set more vegetation on the insides to serve as your bedding, and then construct a fire pit at the opening.
Your leaf hut shelter is now complete. It will be warmer than the A-Frame due to more insulation but it also requires a lot of vegetation and brush to make, so it can only be done in areas where lots of vegetation is available.
LEAN-TO SHELTER
The classic lean-to shelter is likely the simplest shelter of all time. It is actually just like building an A-Frame shelter with only one side.
As with the A-Frame, set a pole at least six feet long horizontally between two trees. Instead of setting slanted poles against the horizontal pole on both sides, only do it on the side that faces the wind. Again, pack the slanted poles with vegetation and construct a bed on the open side. It won’t offer much in the way of insulation, but it will deflect the incoming wind. If you make a fire on the open side, it can help to keep you warm as well.
RAMADA SHELTER
Also known as the gazebo shelter, the ramada shelter is a shelter that should be constructed strictly in the desert or tropical environments. In no way can it be considered adequate for temperate or winter climates. This is because the main purpose of the ramada is to shield the sun and provide you with shade, not keep you warm.
In its most basic form, a ramada shelter is four beams that stick up out of the ground into the air with a tarp over the top to block out the sun. If you don’t have a tarp, you can use sticks, leaves, and brush. For a more complicated version of the ramada, you can also construct walls on any or all of the four sides to protect against the desert winds.
SNOW CAVE
The snow cave is obviously a winter survival shelter, and it should be noted that it can be dangerous. If it collapses on you, you can be buried alive in the snow and die from a lack of oxygen. That’s why you should only construct a snow cave if you have a solid and deep bank of snow.
Building the snow cave, however, is simple. You simply dig into the side of the snow bank to create a tunnel with one low spot in the middle of the tunnel. Then, continue digging and create a bed at the end of the tunnel to sleep on. The cold air that travels into the tunnel will collect in the low spot and keep you warm. Once you’ve dug one or two small holes into the side of the shelter to let oxygen in, your snow cave is complete.
QUINZHEE SHELTER
Another type of winter survival shelter is the quinzhee shelter. Shaped like a dome, the quinzhee is similar in function to an igloo.
Begin by gathering a large pile of snow. For extra security, you can pile it over some gear underneath a blanket or tarp that you have in the center. The snow must be packed down and should be two feet thick on all sides. Next, push one-foot sticks into the dome on multiple sides until you have at least thirty sticks around all parts of the dome.
Dig a tunnel into one side of the dome until you find your gear in the middle. Inside the tunnel, dig a larger hole until you meet the bases of the sticks. Punch a ventilation hole through the dome and construct your bedding. Your quinzhee winter survival shelter is now complete.
WEDGE TARP SHELTER
The wedge tarp shelter is built for protection from the winds. It’s also the only type of shelter in this list that must be built with a tarp rather than using only natural materials. We decided to include it because it’s one of the best shelters out there for deflecting winds.
Stake down two corners of your tarp in the direction of the wind. Take a rope, paracord, or vine and run it through the center of the opposing side of your tarp and then tie the end up around a tree. Take your remaining two corners of the tarp and also tie them down toward the ground as securely as possible.
Find some rocks and place them over the edges of the tarp facing the wind and along the sides to better secure it. Leave the end facing the opposite side of the wind and the tree open so that you can crawl into it. Use vegetation to make a bed on the inside. Your wedge tarp shelter is now complete.
WICKI-UP SHELTER
The wicki-up shelter is essentially a simplified tipee that is a perfect defense against rain.
To make the wicki-up shelter, collect at least two dozen poles and then use at least three of them to make a tripod by locking them together at the top. This is your frame. Continue to set more poles in between the poles of the frame and once they are all set, lash them all together securely at the top.
Insulate the shelter by packing vegetation between the poles and as a bedding on the inside. There should be enough space on the inside for you to lay down in. Leave one of the ends open for you to crawl through and construct a small fire at this open end. With the fire and enough insulation, you’ll be warm and protected from the rain.
CONCLUSION
There are many more survival shelters out there that you can build, but these are just some of the most commonly used ones. Each of them except for the wedge tarp shelter can be built with completely natural materials found in the wilderness, which drastically increases the viability of these shelters in a survival situation.
Remember to give yourself plenty of time for building your shelters and to choose the safest locations possible. It doesn’t matter how well you build your fort; if it’s in a bad location, it’s all going to be worthless.
All in all, shelter building is one of the top priorities in a survival situation because it’s the only thing that will protect you from extreme weather. Each shelter serves a different purpose as far as protecting from the elements. Keep each of these shelters in mind and when needed, select the one that will provide the best protection for your environment.
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Wednesday, June 29, 2016
Tuesday, June 28, 2016
Monday, June 27, 2016
Sunday, June 26, 2016
Effortlessly Send Antenna Wires Skywards With A Spud Gun
The heroes of action films always make it look so easy. Need to climb a tall building? Simply fire a grapnel hook from a handy harpoon gun, it’ll always land exactly where you want it and gain a perfect purchase so you can shin up the rope and arrive at the top barely having raised a sweat. If Hackaday ran Q Branch, we can tell you, we’d make ’em work a bit harder. If only because nobody likes a smartass.
If you’ve ever had to get a real line over something tall, you’ll know it’s a lot more difficult than that. You can only make it work with the lightest of lines that you can then use to pull up something more substantial, and you would be amazed how poor a thrower you are when you’re trying to throw upwards. Try attaching fishing line to a weight, try a bow and arrow, and nine times out of ten you won’t make it. There’s a serious amount of skill and luck involved in this line-throwing game.
[WB5CXC] has an interesting solution to this problem, at least as far as the application of throwing antenna wires over tall obstacles. He’s made a spud gun from PVC pipe, powered by compressed air. It takes the form of a U-shaped tube with one side of the U being a pressure vessel separated from the other by a ball valve.. Place a close-fitting puck with your wire attached in the open side with the valve closed, pump the pressure vessel full of air with a bicycle pump, and open the valve to send both puck and wire skywards. He says it will clear 100′ trees, counsels the user not to go higher than 100psi, and warns that the speeding puck can be dangerous. We like it already.
We’ve covered many spud guns here at Hackaday in the past, but it seems this is the first wire launching one. We’ve had a steam one for example, or this bolt-action spud gun, but pride of place has to go to the spud gun to end all spud guns.
Via DXZone.
Filed under: radio hacks, weapons hacks
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Saturday, June 25, 2016
GPS And SDR Combine Forces
Software-defined radio (or SDR) is a relatively new (to average tinkerers, at least) way of sending and receiving radio signals. The interest in SDR exploded recently with the realization that cheap USB TV tuner cards could be used to start exploring the frequency spectrum at an extremely reduced cost. One of the reasons that this is so advantageous is because of all of the options that a general-purpose computer opens up that go beyond transmitting and receiving, as [Chris] shows with his project that ties SDR together with GPS.
The goal of the project was to automatically tune a radio to the local police department’s frequency, regardless of location. To do this, a GPS receiver on a computer reports information about the current location. A JavaScript program feeds the location data to the SDR, which automatically tunes to the local emergency services frequencies. Of course, this relies on good data for what those frequencies are, but this is public information in most cases (at least in the US).
There are a lot of opportunities here for anyone with SDR. Maybe an emergency alert system that can tune to weather broadcasts if there’s a weather alert, or any of a number of other captivating projects. As for this project, [Chris] plans to use Google’s voice recognition software to transcribe the broadcasts as well. The world of SDR is at your fingertips to do anything you can imagine! And, if you’re looking to get started in it, be sure to check out the original post covering those USB TV tuner dongles.
Filed under: radio hacks
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26 Depression Era Recipes You Can Use for Survival
by Megan
Most people who are preparing for a future economic collapse or SHTF event realize that life as it is today could be radically altered. One of the main things that will change radically if the world experiences another severe economic collapse due to an EMP event or another extended grid-down situation will be diet and cooking methods.
Many preppers are looking to the tried and true recipes of the Great Depression period which began in August 1929 and lingered through approximately 1941 in the United States and Europe. It was the worst recession of the Western industrialized world. It truly altered the way of life for many families. Vegetable gardens were nurtured, clothing was patched and repaired for longer wear, and several generations of families often lived together out of necessity.
Feeding a family following another severe economic collapse, extended grid-down situation, or other SHTF event will be similar to feeding a family during the Great Depression. Some of the lessons surrounding food that were learned back then include:
- Growing your own food
- Sharing and bartering food with neighbors
- Making the best you can from what you do have
- Being thrifty, re-using, and recycling as much as possible
- Foraging, hunting, and preserving food will once again become central to meal planning
Shopping in the Depression Era
Shopping in the Depression Era was much different than it is today, especially for lower income and middle class families. Following an EMP or other SHTF event, shipping, trucking, and commercial food manufacturing will again be at a standstill. We may once again have to shop like our ancestors did during the Depression Era.
Preppers will need to buy now and properly store large quantities of things such as beans, rice, flour, sugar, cornmeal, potatoes, and sea salt. Growing your own herbs for seasoning and vegetables to eat will be crucial. Eggs will soon be at a premium, or only available through bartering, if at all. The same will be true for raw milk, cream, butter as well as bacon or pork, and beef. You will need to raise your own chickens, dairy cow, pigs, and beef cows or trade something valuable that you have plenty of to get what you want from someone who does have it.
For those who raise or grow their own food, it will be important to learn how to build a root cellar to extend the life of your harvest for leaner times that may come. Without electricity, storing of dairy and other perishable items will need to be done in something like a zeer pot “fridge” in hot weather.
Bread & Breakfasts
Breakfasts during the Great Depression Era varied widely according to socio-economic status of the household and what was available at the time. It usually included some kind of dried or baked fruit if fruit was plentiful for the family, a creamy grits cereal or farina cereal, some type of bread and tea or coffee. Milk and eggs were expensive so unless the family raised their own cow or chickens, many meals didn’t include them during the Great Depression.
-
Milk Toast
- 1 pint of scalded milk
- ½ tsp salt
- 2 tbsps. Butter
- 4 tbsps. Cold water
- 2 ½ tbsps. Bread flour
- 6 slices dry toast
Put flour into skillet, add water and stir on low heat until creamy. Add paste to milk stir continually until thick. Cover and cook additional twenty minutes. Sprinkle salt into mixture. Add butter in small pieces. Dip slice of toast in sauce, remove when soft. Pour leftover sauce onto toast to serve.
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Cornbread in milk
- 4 cups water
- 1 cup cornmeal (yellow)
- ¼ cup flour
- 1 tsp salt
- ¼ cup canola oil
- 1 Tbsp. sugar
Mix cornmeal, flour, salt, and sugar into a large bowl. Add 4 cups boiling water. Mix thoroughly. Batter should be the consistency of pancake batter. Heat canola or other cooking oil in pan. Add batter to your pan and fry, flip occasionally, until both sides are golden in color. Tear or cut into pieces in bowl, add milk to suit your taste.
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Hot milk and rice
- ¼ to ½ bowl of cooked rice
- Milk
- Dab of butter
- Sugar or honey to sweeten
Mix ingredients and enjoy.
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Cornmeal mush with milk
- ½ cup cornmeal
- 1 cup water or bone broth
- Leftover bacon grease
Mix cornmeal with bone broth or water and allow to sit overnight. Form into loaf pan. Keep in refrigerator. Slice and fry in bacon grease. You could also mix ½ cornmeal and ½ boiling water, let cool and form into a patty and then fry in grease (no overnight soak required). Pour milk over cornmeal.
-
Sugar bread
- 1-2 tbsps. Sugar
- Butter
- Homemade bread
Spread butter on bread and sprinkle with sugar. This was definitely a treat only if things were going well and sugar was plentiful.
-
Sugar Cookies and Coffee
- ¾ cup sugar
- 3 eggs (beaten)
- 1 ½ to 2 cups flour (for texture)
- Pinch of salt
Beat eggs and sugar and then mix in the flour well. Roll cookies and score with a knife. Bake in oven at about 300 degrees until golden.
-
Oatmeal Pancakes
- 2 cups oatmeal
- 1 tbsp. melted fat
- 1/8 tsp salt
- 1 egg beat in 1 cup of milk
Mix above ingredients and add 1 cup sifted flour and 1 tsp baking powder. Beat well. Cook on hot griddle.
-
Spider Corn Bread
- 2 cups sour milk
- 1-1/2 cups corn meal
- 1 tsp. soda
- 2 eggs
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 1 teaspoon salt
Combine all dry ingredients first, then pour in milk and well beaten eggs. Add butter to cast iron pan to grease pan. Once pan is hot, pour in the mixture. Cook in hot oven for twenty minutes. Serves six.
-
Potato Pancakes
- 2 cups hot water
- ½ cup of milk
- 2 cups of flour
- 1 egg
- 2 cups chopped potato
- 1 tsp salt
- 5 tsp. of baking powder
Clean potatoes with the skins on and parboil (pre-cook) them for 8-12 minutes. Skin potatoes and then grate or chop in food processor. In the Depression Era it was also common to use leftover mashed potatoes instead. Mix milk, potatoes, salt, and eggs, together. Sift baking powder with flour into wet mixture. Continue blending until smooth. Use hot water to thin batter if needed. Drop onto greased hot griddle, flip as needed.
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Fifty-Fifty Biscuits
- 2 cups corn meal (can use rice flour, fine ground peanuts, or ground soy beans)
- 4 tablespoons shortening
- 4 teaspoons baking powder
- 2 teaspoons salt
- 2 cups flour
- 1 to ½ cups liquid
Sift flour, cornmeal, salt, and baking powder, twice. Use cold shortening and use a knife to integrate it into the mixture, finish by rubbing it in with your hands. Quickly mix using cold liquid (milk or water) and form into a soft dough. Lightly flour a wooden board and roll dough into a ½ inch thick sheet. Use a tin can to cut dough into round pieces. Sprinkle a shallow pan with flour and place rounds slightly apart from each other. Bake 10-15 minutes until golden.
-
Split Pea Pancakes
- 1/3 cup flour
- 2 cups split peas
- 2 egg whites
- 1 cup milk
- 1 tsp. baking powder
- 2 egg yolks
- 1/8 tsp cayenne
- 2 tbsps. pork drippings
- 1 tsp salt
Soak peas overnight, cook till tender. Chop using food processor and mix all ingredients in. Bake on greased hot griddle.
-
Fresh Bread
- 4 cups flour
- 2 cups warm water
- 2 tbsps. yeast
Using large bowl, pour in flour and create a well in the center. Add yeast and dissolve with warm water. Mix together and form a ball. Use towel to cover. Let rise to double its size (30 minutes). Punch dough down and cut into two pieces and roll each piece into a loaf. Let rise a second time until it reaches top of pan. Uncover bread, slit tops, bake in oven on 300 degrees. Rub hot bread with water and wrap in a lightweight towel to make crust softer.
-
Hard Tack
- 1 cup water
- 6 cups flour
- 4 tsp salt (optional)
- 2 tbsp. cold butter or shortening (optional)
Pour water into a large bowl and gradually add the flour. Stir continually. Stop adding flour when it becomes too thick to continue stirring. Knead and fold dough. Roll to a ½ thick sheet. Use a knife to slice the dough in squares approximately 3 inches by 3 inches. Lay on ungreased baking sheet. Use a toothpick or skewer to poke 4 holes in 4 rows for each square. Bake for 1 hour in oven at 375 degrees but flip the crackers over after 30 minutes.
Soups & Stews
-
Cream Soup/White Sauce
- 2 tbsps. Butter or lard
- 3 tbsps. Flour
- 2 cups milk
- ½ tsp salt
Melt butter over low heat. Add salt and flour. Stir continually until frothy and smooth. Cook 3 minutes, prevent browning by stirring often. Add milk slowly. Boost heat slightly and stir until mixture thickens and is smooth and boiling. Eat like soup or pour over toast, eggs, noodles, or whatever is on hand.
-
Bean Soup
- 1 quart of water
- 1 cup beans
- 1 tbsps. onion juice
- 2 tsps. salt
- 1-2 large onions sliced or chunked
- ¼ tsp mustard
- 2 tbsps. flour mixed with 2 tbsps. cold water
Soak beans in water overnight to soften. Pour ingredients into large pot and cook slowly with onion and pork. Add water as needed.
-
Vegetable Soup
- ½ cup cabbage
- ½ cup carrots
- 1 cup potatoes
- 1/3 tsp pepper
- 1 tbsp. minced onion
- 4 tbsp. fat
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 tsp salt
- 2 tbsps. chopped parsley
- 4 peppercorns
- 4 cloves
- 1 cup of tomato juice/pulp
- 1 quart of water
Heat onion, peppercorns, pepper, salt, and bay leaf in tomato juice for twenty minutes. Strain. Add additional ingredients to tomato mixture and cook 1 hour. Garnish with parsley before serving.
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Potato and Cheese Soup
- 1 cup milk
- 1/8 tsp cayenne
- 2 tsps. onion juice
- 1 ½ tsps. salt
- 2 cups diced potatoes
- 2 cups of water that potatoes were cooked in
- 2 tbsps. fine chopped parsley
- 3 tbsps. flour
- ¼ cup grated cheese
- 2 tbsps. fat
Cook diced potatoes in 2 cups of water until tender. Push potatoes and 2 cups water through strainer. Add dry ingredients to melted fat, gradually add onion juice and milk. Sprinkle on grated cheese and garnish with parsley just before serving.
Dinners & Desserts
-
Beef Stew
- ¾ to 1-pound meat from shin, knuckles, neck, or cross ribs
- ¾ cup carrots
- 1 onion
- 1 cup potatoes
- ½ cup turnips
- ¼ tsp pepper
- 1 tsp salt
- 1-quart water
- ½ cup flour
Dice meat in small sections. Soak half of it in water for 60 minutes. Heat water and meat to boiling gradually. Salt and pepper remaining meat to season. Dip in flour and brown with onion in about 3 tablespoons of fat. Combine mixture with meat. Continue to cook, about 60 minutes, until tender. Add vegetables and ½ cup cold water. Cook until veggies are tender.
-
Pepper and Eggs
- 3 large peppers
- 1 tbsp. vegetable oil or lard
- 4 Eggs
Clean the peppers, remove the seeds, and slice them. Put vegetable oil or lard in pan and heat. Place sliced peppers in pan and sprinkle with salt. Crack eggs into bowl and whisk with fork. Once the peppers soften, pour egg mixture into pan and blend everything together.
-
Bean Sausage
- 1 cup soaked lentils, dried peas, lima beans, or beans
- 1 egg
- ½ cup dried breadcrumbs
- ½ tsp salt
- 1 tsp sage
- ¼ cup fat
Cook beans until soft. Thoroughly mix ingredients together and then form like a sausage. Cover in flour and fry using fat.
-
Poor man’s Meal
- 3 Potatoes
- 1 Onion
- 4 Hot Dogs
- 4 tbsps. Tomato sauce
Peel and cube the potatoes. Put potatoes into a skillet and slice onions into pan. Add about 1-3 tbsps. vegetable oil or lard. Let potato and onion cook and slice hot dogs. Add sauce to potatoes followed by hot dogs. Add ½ cup water, continue cooking until potatoes are soft.
-
Dumplings
- 2 cups flour
- 4 tsp. baking powder
- 2 tbsp. fat drippings
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 cup milk, meat stock or water
Sift salt together with flour and baking powder. Then cut with fat. Slowly add milk or water to create a soft dough. Roll out and put on the pre-greased pan. Drop directly into stew or soup, cover, and cook 30 minutes.
-
Beans & Ham Hocks
- 4 or 5 smoked ham hocks
- 1 lb. dry pinto beans
- 1 chopped yellow onion
- Bay leaf
- 2 ½ tsp. Black pepper
- Salt to taste
Rinse beans and add to large pot with onion, pepper, bay leaf and ham hocks. Add water to cover everything and bring to a boil. Simmer covered for 2-3 hours. Stir frequently, add water if needed to cover. Continue cooking until beans are tender and sauce thickens. Serve warm with cornbread
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Hobo Tin Foil Dinners
It was not uncommon in the Depression Era for families to make a meal out of whatever types of vegetables were in season or available that day.
- Potatoes
- Squash
- Peppers
- Corn
- Onion
- Butter
Cut vegetables into large pieces, add butter and salt and pepper to taste. Wrap in tin foil, and cook in the oven or even in the coals of an open fire.
-
Eggless chocolate cake
- 3 tbsp. unsweetened cocoa
- 1 ½ cups flour
- 1 tsp baking soda
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 tsp white vinegar
- 1 cup water
- 5 tbsp. vegetable oil
Mix cocoa, baking soda, and flour in 8” square greased baking pan. Create a large depression in the dry ingredients and pour vegetable oil into it. Create two smaller wells, pour vanilla into one and vinegar in the other. Add water to the entire pan. Stir until blended and smooth. Bake 35 minutes in 350-degree oven.
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Baked Apples Without Sugar
- 1 tbsp. honey
- 1 tbsp. corn syrup
- Chopped dates
- Raisins
- Marmalade
- popcorn
Fill pan with ¼ inch of water to prevent burning. Core apples and fill with syrup and chopped date/marmalade mixture or popcorn/corn syrup mixture. Bake ½ hour until tender. Serve with additional syrup as a sauce.
Today we are lucky enough to have some modern conveniences available to us that make securing food and cooking meals much easier than they were in the Depression Era. Most preppers have come to the realization however that following an EMP or SHTF event that would create an extended grid down situation, we may very well have to revert to some of the methods used by our ancestors to feed their families.
If you have already started storing bulk dry goods, growing your own vegetables, and raising your own livestock when such an event occurs, you will be miles ahead of many people. Tuck these recipes away or even try some of them this week so that you can be confident in your ability to cook in a way that will sustain your family and boost morale during tough times.
What’s your favorite Depression Era recipe? Share with us in the comments below.
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Friday, June 24, 2016
Thursday, June 23, 2016
Check out this week’s steals and deals from Gearbest
this article is sponsored by GearBest.com
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How to Make a Rabbit Snare
by Karen
When society collapses you will eventually have to find a way to get your own food by hunting and foraging for it. If you think prepping is all about storing away food and water, you are absolutely not going to survive. There is simply no guarantee you will have food at any point in time after the collapse. You might have to flee your home, leaving your preps behind. You might have looters come and steal your food. Even if you manage to get through the collapse while bugging in and you get by without any major incidents, you will still eventually run out of whatever you had stored away.
Regardless of your situation, you need to build some hunting and foraging skills. One way to hunt is to create a snare. A snare is a way to catch rabbits, hares, and other small fur-bearing game without the use of a gun, knife, or other type of weapon. All it takes to set a snare is some knowledge and skill and a little ingenuity. Plus, it is a great way to catch game without having to stay put. You can set your snares and then go about finding water, building a shelter, and doing other necessary tasks.
Making the Snare Loop
To build a rabbit snare, you have to make a snare loop. You can easily purchase snare wire from any hunting supply shop and at many outdoor supply stores. You can even get 22 or 24 gauge wire at a hardware store and use it. Copper, brass, or steel wire is preferred, but if you do not have wire, you can also use string or thin rope. Once you have your wire, you will need to do the following:
- Use wire cutters to cut a length of wire that is 2.5 feet (about the length of your arm).
- At one end of the wire, bend the wire around your finger to create a loop that is about an inch in diameter. Leave a tail of wire 1 to 2 inches long.
- Wrap the tail you left hanging from the loop around the long end of wire directly below the loop to secure the loop. You want to make this tight to make the loop solid so it doesn’t move much or come undone. The loop will act like a slip knot.
- Take the other end of the wire and feed it through the loop you made.
Check out this video for a visual of how to make a snare loop.
You now have the snare loop, and because of the slip knot, the size of this loop will adjust to tighten around the rabbit or other animal you capture. Now you need to know how to set a snare trap.
Types of Snare Traps
There are a few ways you can secure a snare loop to effectively create a trap. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Some of the more basic traps rely on the animal tightening the snare wire around its own neck with its movement while is struggles to free itself. Other traps rely of having a sort of spring mechanism that will be set off, pulling the animal from the ground and tightening the snare wire around it. Let’s take a look at them in order of how easy it is to build it.
Static Loop Snare
This is a good option if you have access to a fence that has larger mesh holes. If you notice that one of the holes in the wire mesh has frequently been used by rabbits or other small game, this is a great place to set your snare. You can usually see signs of animal passage because fur will get caught in the wire where the animal passes through. All you need to do is secure your snare loop on one side of the fence so the animal will pass through it when they pass through the hole in the fence. This snare is stable and very easy to set up because you can usually attach it right to the fence. Its main limitation is that there are a limited number of spots where you can set this up.
Free-Standing Snare
The free-standing snare is easy to set up. The long end of the loop wire is secure in the ground either by a peg, a U nail, or a sturdy branch that can be driven into the ground. The snare loop is secured to the object driven into the ground and left sticking out where the animal will run through it. This trap requires the animal’s movements to tighten the snare wire, which might make it take longer for the animal to die and might cause greater damage to the fur and flesh.
Hanging Snare
This is similar to the free-standing snare except you will find a way to hang it so the snare loop is suspended over the path where the animal will run through it. You can suspend this snare from a natural overhanging branch or you can rig some branches so that one is held up by two others and suspended across the space where you want to place the trap. Again, the movements of the animal cause this snare to tighten.
Hooked Snare
The hooked snare is a bit more complicated, but very effective. For this snare you will need a good location (we’ll talk about this next!) with a sapling or branch in a tree that will bend close to the ground. Alternatively, you can use a strong stick or branch that is dead, but still has some spring left in it. Push the thicker end of this large stick into the ground (place a large stone over the end that is in the ground if needed to keep the stick from coming out of the ground). The stick can be used as is or bent over a log or large rock.
You will also need two smaller sticks that each have a protruding piece that will allow the two sticks to hook together. Alternatively, you can carve notches into the sticks. To do this you want to carve horizontally on the trigger stick, about 1 inch from the bottom end, and then diagonally (45 degrees) starting about 1 to 2 inches from the top and meeting the inside of the horizontal cut. This leaves a wedge-shaped notch. The notch on the stick driven into the ground will be opposite, with the horizontal portion of the notch near the top. This way the two notches will easily hook together.
Follow these steps to build the trigger snare:
- Drive one of the notched sticks into the ground across the path from the sapling/branch.
- Tie a string or thin rope to the sapling/branch and then secure the other end of the rope to the trigger stick (the stick that is not in the ground).
- Secure the snare loop to the trigger stick.
- Hook the trigger stick to the stick that is driven into the ground. The rope connected to the sapling/branch should be short enough that the sapling or branch bends toward the ground, creating tension. Ensure the snare loop is directed into the path.
This snare will capture the rabbit, which will dislodge the trigger causing the sapling or branch to lift the catch off the ground, tightening the snare loop and effectively strangling it.
There are a number of variations to this type of snare, but essentially, you need a way to secure the end of the trigger stick. Alternatives to hooking it onto another notched stick include tucking the end under a large stone or bending it so it is lodged behind another stick (no notches involved). You can also carve a box notch into the stick lodged in the ground, using a trigger that is simply a small stick that fits into the box notch as a plug.
Where to Put Your Snare
We have talked a lot about how to build the snare loop and about the different snares you can set, but no matter how good your snare is it won’t catch anything if it isn’t positioned properly. You have to put your snare in the right location and in the right position. The snare needs to be put in a location through which rabbits and other small fur-bearing animals tend to pass, but far enough away from domestic residences that you don’t risk trapping pets. The best place to put the snare is along an obvious and well-used trail through the forest.
When it comes to positioning the snare, the key is to position it so that the snare loop is suspended directly in the middle of the path about 3 to 4 inches above the ground. You can position some small twigs through either side of the loop to ensure that it stays in place. You also have to make sure the animal actually runs right through the snare, rather than to one side or the other. If you have found a very narrow part in the trail, this might not be an issue, but if there is space around the snare, the rabbit might pass around it. Fortunately, the forest location provides you with the opportunity to funnel the animal in the direction in which you want it to go. Simply gather foliage and sticks around the snare, forcing the rabbit to go directly through it.
The best setup is to make numerous snares and set them along the trail at intervals. This way, if the rabbit misses one snare, there is another one to catch it. It also gives you the opportunity to catch more than one animal at a time, providing you with more food. You can check out this video that shows you how to choose the right location and how to set up a simple hanging snare.
Remember to check your snares every day. If you do catch something, you want to get to it before something else does and while it is still a fresh kill. You will also hopefully get to it and ease its suffering if the snare didn’t kill it quickly. Checking your snares daily will also give you the chance to reset or adjust the traps if anything has disrupted them.
The Law
A final word on snaring animals. If you are practicing setting snares pre-collapse, then you need to be aware of the laws regarding animal trapping and snaring in your state, province, or country. You aren’t necessarily going to be allowed to go out and snare animals at any time of the year and you will need a license. The best thing to do is contact your local authorities to find out the details regarding licensing and restrictions.
Snaring animals is an effective way to capture rabbits and other small game to supplement your food supply. You can easily practice making a snare loop and even positioning a snare right in your back yard, but the best practice is going out and actually snaring an animal. As with any skill, this is one you should train before you need to rely on it for your survival.
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Wednesday, June 22, 2016
Tuesday, June 21, 2016
Hackaday Prize Entry: BLE Beacon Library
While faking BLE advertising beacons using an nRF24L01+ module is nothing new, it’s become a heck of a lot easier now that [Pranav Gulati] has written some library code and a few examples for it.
[Pranav]’s work is based on [Dmitry Grinberg]’s epic bit-banging BLE research that we featured way back in 2013. And while the advertisement channel in BLE is limited in the amount of data it can send, a $1 nRF24 module and a power-thrifty microcontroller would be great for a battery-powered device that needs to send small amount of data infrequently for a really long time.
We’re not 100% sure where [Pranav] is going to take this project. Honestly, the library looks like it’s ready to use right now. If you’ve been holding off on making your own BLE-enabled flock of birds, or even if you just want to mess around with the protocol, your life has gotten a lot easier.
Filed under: radio hacks, The Hackaday Prize
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Monday, June 20, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | How can we incubate a dream?
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Lucid Dreaming | reality check question
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Sunday, June 19, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | How does WBTB work?
I have a question on how WBTB seems to be so effective..
How does WBTB work? Some say that it makes your awareness carry over to your dreams, but how would it carry over in the first place?
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Saturday, June 18, 2016
Easy DIY Telemetry Goes the Distance
[PaweÅ‚ Spychalski] wrote in to tell us about some experiments he’s been doing, using cheap 433 MHz HC-12 radio units as a telemetry radio for his quadcopter.
In this blog post, he goes over the simple AT command set, and some of the limitations of the HC-12 part. Then he takes it out for a spin on his quadcopter, and finds out that his setup is good for 450 meters in an open field. Finally, he ties the radio into his quad’s telemetry system and tethers the other end to his cellphone through a Bluetooth unit for a sweet end-to-end system that only set him back around $20 and works as far out as 700 meters.
The secrets to [PaweÅ‚]’s success seem to be some hand-made antennas and keeping the baud rate down to a reasonable 9600 baud. We wonder if there’s room (or reason?) for improvement using a directional antenna on the ground. What say you, Hackaday Antenna Jockeys?
Also check out this very similar build where an ESP8266 replaces the Bluetooth module. And stashes it all inside a nice wooden box! Nice work all around.
Filed under: drone hacks, radio hacks
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How to Build a Secret Underground Greenhouse
by Karen
One of the most important aspects of survival after the collapse of society is how to ensure you and your family have enough food. You may have a few months of food stored away, but eventually that will run out and you will need to hunt, forage, and grow your own food. The great thing is you don’t have to wait for the collapse to get started.
Growing your own food will allow you to develop the skills you will need post-collapse and it will give you the chance to save money on your grocery bill. With the cost of food on the rise, this is important. There are so many advantages of an underground greenhouse, that you might be surprised. You might also be surprised at how easy it is to build and maintain one.
Advantages of an Underground Greenhouse
An underground greenhouse offers plenty of advantages over a traditional greenhouse. The first and perhaps most important of these is the fact that you can keep it hidden, particularly if it is built into a natural hillside or slope. When it comes to survival post-collapse, keeping your source of food hidden from the roaming eyes of others is an advantage. Other advantages include:
Visual appeal: Some people feel that having an underground greenhouse looks better than having a traditional above-ground structure. The idea of not having a large, bulky structure on their property makes it nicer in terms of visual appeal.
Insulation: When the greenhouse is set beneath the surface, the thermal mass of the earth acts as an insulator. A greenhouse set between 6 and 8 feet below the surface will keep a consistent temperature through the winter and the summer. In the winter, the temperature can easily be kept between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10-15 degrees Celsius), which is warmer than above-ground greenhouses. In the summer, the cool earth keeps the temperature from getting too hot. This makes the greenhouse ideal for any climate and any season.
Versatility: Besides the fact that an underground greenhouse can grow food, it is also useful if you have livestock. There are a few types of livestock that can benefit from being in an underground greenhouse, particularly in the winter. This includes chickens, sheep, and goats. If you have livestock and enough space for a larger greenhouse, then it makes sense to build a greenhouse big enough for the animals.
Protected environment: An underground greenhouse is far less susceptible to pests and chemicals. Chemicals that are sprayed nearby won’t end up on your plants and pests, including insects and mammals (deer, rabbits, etc.), won’t have easy access. That said, you need to be sure pollinators have access to your crops. If they don’t and you are growing food that is not self-pollinating, then you will need to hand-pollinate.
Low maintenance: Since the greenhouse is buried, most of the structure consists of the earthen walls surrounding it and the ground as the floor. For this reason, there is very little structure that actually needs to be maintained. The garden beds have less exposure to the elements and will last longer. The only part that will require regular maintenance is the roof. the frame and plastic or panels can be replaced/repaired as necessary.
Design
There are a number of different designs when it comes to building an underground or pit greenhouse. The early sun pit was a design from 1881 that used the effect of the sun heating the ground or dark stones to heat the greenhouse. The walipini is a popular underground greenhouse design originating in South America that takes advantage of the winter sun. here is a design analysis of a walipini greenhouse. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i79bE7a-f8g)
Regardless of the deign you use, it is recommended that your underground greenhouse is 8×12 feet in size. Of course, you will have to base the size of your greenhouse on the amount of space you have available and the amount of space you need for planting and walking inside the greenhouse. Here are some general tips when building an underground greenhouse.
It is important to put your underground greenhouse in the right location. When scouting a location:
- To keep your greenhouse out of sight and secret try to place it in a location that is not highly visible from major routes of travel, such as a roadway or trail.
- Make sure there isn’t too much tree cover or shade from buildings because your greenhouse needs light.
- You want the greenhouse to run east-west with the roof facing south to capture the sunlight (facing north if you are in the southern hemisphere).
- Plan your greenhouse so that you have a way in and out of the pit, whether that is a ramp or stairs.
Once you have determined where you will put the greenhouse, you need to dig a great big hole. When excavating:
- Dig down to a level 2 feet below the planned depth of the greenhouse.
- Ensure the walls have a slope of at least 6 inches between the roof and the floor.
- Clay, bricks, or any other material that will trap heat can be used to build and stabilize the walls and keep them from caving in.
- Save the deeper excavated soil to build up the north wall of the greenhouse, creating a berm, and the top-most excavated soil for the floor of your greenhouse.
Once you have your hole and your berm, you will want to plan for drainage. When planning drainage:
- Fill the extra 2 feet you dug down with gravel, courser at the bottom and finer at the top.
- Lay 8 inches of soil on top of the gravel.
- Ensure the perimeter has 2 to 3 feet of gravel, which will improve drainage.
- Ensure the bottom of the greenhouse has a slight slope from the middle to the edges to ensure good drainage.
- Open gravel wells in the corners are an optional feature that will provide a method of water collection.
If you are planning to install an irrigation system, do it at this point, digging the trenches and installing the hoses/piping. Here is one way to install an irrigation system:
- Dig trenches throughout your garden, making them a few inches in depth.
- Ensure all trenches feed into a single trench located at one end of the garden.
- Lay PVC piping and/or soaker hoses in the trenches.
- Ensure all hose ends are capped and all PVC connectors are sealed and their holes stopped up with rubber cement.
- Avoid connecting more than total of 100 feet of pipes/hoses to maintain adequate water pressure.
- Drill 1/16-inch holes into pipes and any hoses that don’t have holes and space the holes in groups about 5 feet apart.
- Install a backflow, timer, and pressure regulator to the faucet, making sure to connect the hose to the pressure regulator.
Once you have the irrigation and drainage taken care of, you can install the door(s). When planning the door(s):
- Build your ramp or stairs at the appropriate location.
- Build the door frame at the base of the ramp.
- If there are any gaps around the frame, fill them with clay or soil to prevent heat from escaping.
- Secure the door frame to the wall of soil by drilling holes into the sides of the frame at the top, middle, and bottom and using dowel, rebar, or stakes to attach the frame to the wall.
Finally, with the door(s) in place, you can install the roof. When roofing:
- The berm should be situated so the angle between the top of the roof and the berm inside the greenhouse is anywhere between 53 degrees and 73 degrees.
- Add 23 degrees to your latitude to determine the angle of inclination for your roof (the ideal is that the roof is perpendicular to the rays of sunlight on winter solstice).
- The frame can be constructed from wood, 4-inch PVC pipes, or the type of metal hoops used in hoop houses.
- The roof frame can be covered in greenhouse plastic or polyethylene or glass panels, ensuring that the covering extends past the edge of the frame by at least 1 foot on all sides.
- Plastic sheeting can also be placed on the underside of the roof frame.
- A rain gutter can be installed, placed along the bottom edge of the greenhouse, that will catch the runoff from the roof and direct it away from the structure.
Every greenhouse needs the right amount of ventilation, so it is critical that you include ventilation in your plans. The four ways to add passive ventilation (without the use of electricity or fans) to your greenhouse is as follows:
- Install two doors, one at each end of the greenhouse.
- Build a chimney into the midpoint of the wall at the back of the greenhouse.
- Build a door-sized vent at the midpoint of the top of the wall at the back of the greenhouse.
- Build drain pipe venting arms that are run from outside, through the earth, and into the greenhouse, allowing the temperature of the earth to regulate the temperature of the air entering and leaving the greenhouse.
Plants
When it comes to what you can grow in an underground greenhouse, anything that you can grow above ground in the growing season or anything you can grow in a traditional greenhouse is fair game. This includes, but is not limited to the following.
- Tomatoes
- Eggplant
- Herbs
- Peppers
- Potatoes
- Beans
- Radishes
- Carrots
- Onions
- Broccoli
- Fruit-bearing bushes and trees (even citrus)
- Winter and summer squashes
- Melons
Through the cooler winter temperatures, you can grow cool-weather crops, such as:
- Kale
- Cabbage
- Spinach
- Peas
If you have the space, the ability, and the drive to build an underground greenhouse, you won’t regret it. This is a super way to be able to grow food all year round and keep that food off the radar because it is simply less conspicuous. For more information on the process check out this video series:
Happy building!
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Friday, June 17, 2016
Thursday, June 16, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | Wrild
My memory isn't that good, so MILD has never worked for me. The few lucid dreams I did have were hazy and awful. I couldn't control anything. It sucked.
Then, about a year ago, I read an article about this technique. My memory is so much better when I've actually written down what I need to know, so it was perfect that all I had to do was write down my mantra over and over.
Just take a piece of paper and a pen, and write something along the lines of "I will realize when I'm dreaming tonight" over and over.
The first night I did this, I had a vivid and incredible lucid dream. I was in a field of flowers, and I reversed gravity and flew away. It was awesome.
Even on nights I don't do it, my dreams are incredibly vivid, even if theyre not lucid(I'm in a dry spell right now, but whatever)So, I figured I'd share it with you! The quality of my dreams has improved tenfold, to the point where even non lucid dreams are as vivid as waking life.
Anyway, just wanted to write this down and let you know. Happy dreaming everyone! ☺
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Lucid Dreaming | Lucid Dreaming and Exercise
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Lucid Dreaming | My second LD ended in about 20 seconds?
P.S i've a regular sleep cycle for the past week, going to bed at 12:00 PM, and waking up at around 10:00 AM every day, and i set my alarm at 4:30 AM to attempt WILD. Just incase any of that may have played a factor in this. I also don't remember when it was i had the lucid dream, but i fell asleep again after 4:30 when trying to do WILD (fail i know lol) so its pretty much anywhere between then and 10:00 AM.
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Lucid Dreaming | Testing a SSILD variation: Continously staring forward
SSILD variation: Continuously stare forward while falling asleep until you're dreaming. After your dream, do a reality check when you wake up.
If you're staring forward, you're doing it correctly. If you're not staring forward, you're not doing it correctly. Although this technique is simple, you will find that this is not exactly easy to do because it requires every bit of your attention. But the fact that it requires every bit of your attention is the reason it works. Don't think about when you are going to fall asleep or start dreaming because this will likely keep you awake. Just continuously stare forward with your eyes closed while in bed and see what happens.
From a good amount of testing I've done in the past, this technique seems to consistently increase awareness during dreams and cause false awakenings which are caught by doing reality checks when waking up. I am not sure if this technique causes increased lucidity during dreams that aren't false awakenings. I'm trying to find something to do after waking up that will help make that happen.
Doing no other techniques, I tested this technique for a month during November of 2014 and had 38 DILDs (18 of which were caught false awakenings) and 4 WILDs while becoming lucid 19/30 nights. I missed a good amount of false awakenings so I could have done better.
I'll test this technique for a couple of weeks and see what kind of results I get. You can test this as well if you like and post your results here.
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Wednesday, June 15, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | So much information, where to start?
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Tuesday, June 14, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | Is Lucid Dreaming harder for you when you're tired?
So yeah, I'm just wondering if it'd be a good idea to get a few extra hours sleep until the end of the week to make up the lost sleep and maybe cool off the LD practising, and was wondering if anyone else had the same thing happen to them. I'd also like to know if it's a scientific thing, i.e. does your body give you less REM sleep when tired?
Anyway, thanks and happy dreaming!
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Monday, June 13, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | I had a dream I became lucid?!
I don't know wether it worked or not because After that I slightly remember still being in my dream, lucid, but maybe getting to excited and I woke up.
Did i dream I became lucid? Or did I become Lucid?
I've not had a lucid dream (or any hardly) since i was 16, and I started lucid dreaming.
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NEW Giveaway!!! Cheers for GearBest Big Sale this Summer– Best Ever Promo
this giveaway is sponsored by www.GearBest.com
GearBest is providing EPIC GearBest Summer Discounts — Best Ever Promo (from June 13-17)
There are Ultimate Flash Deals | Free Gifts | Intel Inside | Hot Sales | Scorching Brands | Local Warehouses Parts Included.
To celebrate this Big Promo, they also support a Giveaway here!!! There are 5 items listed:
1. Convoy L6 3800LM Cree XHP70 N4 LED Flashlight —Flash Sale Price: $47.99
2. Opus BT-C3100 V2.2 Li-ion Digital NiCd NiMH Battery Charger —Flash Sale Price: $31.79
3. KAUKKO 18L Fashionable Backpack with Laptop Layer —Flash Sale Price: $33.99
4. Inflatable Folding Sleeping Lazy Bag for Outdoor Camping–Special Price: $35.07
5. Original Xiaomi Yi 1080P Car WiFi DVR CN Version —Flash Sale Price: $54.99
How to Enter:
- Post which item(s) in the BEST EVER Promo you want to get
- Post the item (number) above you want to win
One winner will be picked via random number generator on June 17. The prize will be the item he wants to win (under $60)
PS: There is also a Summer Lucky Draw in this big sale (http://ift.tt/1tordzD). You can try up to 9 Lucky Draw attempts each day. Welcome you check and enter
GOOD LUCK!!!
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What is Democide?
by Megan
Many of us may not be as informed as our grandparents when it comes to politics and war, but we are still not a stupid people. Freedom is still important to a great many people and there are still many people, especially preppers, who are not willing to just follow along with whatever plans the government cooks up next.
In earlier times it was easier to control a million people than physically to kill a million people. Today it is infinitely easier to kill a million people than to control a million people. — Zbigniew Brzezinski
Democide occurs when any unarmed individual or group of individuals is murdered by a government. There are several different types of democide, including genocide, mass murder, and politicide. Whatever side of the fence you might be on when it comes to government, the quote above points out the one thing that everyday citizens on both sides need to understand.
The key factor to democide is similar to the key factor when determining homicide. Was there premeditation? Did the actions of the government demonstrate a lack of regard for human life? Make no mistake, governments may appear to be made up of bumbling incompetents who are lazy and driven by greed but the elite, powerful families, the “wizards behind the curtain”, has become very effective at democide.
The largest democide occurred as a fallout of communism. Although the thought of your government murdering people might be scary and unheard of, it’s really nothing new. Keep in mind that soldiers being killed during battle is not counted as democide.
Here are some events you may have read about or remember, that today are considered democide:
- 1917-1987 USSR, nearly 62 million people killed.
- 1933-1945 The Jewish Holocaust, over 20 million people killed. Most people are familiar with the holocaust having read about or seen portrayals of how this tragic event played out.
- 1936-1945 Japan’s Imperialism over 5 million people killed.
- 1949-1987 PRC (Communist China) over 76 million people killed.
- 1975-1979 Cambodia, At the direction of Pol Pot, over 2 million people killed by communist Khmer Rouge, aka “The Butcher”.
- Western Colonialism combined killed 50 million individuals.
Forms of Democide:
Politicide is the harm or murder of individuals or groups of individuals by government based on the fact or perception that they belong to a specific political group, are a threat to a government entity, or for other political purposes.
Genocide is the maiming, torture, or killing of individuals by government simply because they practice a certain religion, are of a specific race or ethnic group, or specific language. The term genocide was not used until the 20th century but the earliest documented example of genocide was centuries earlier. The good news is the rate of genocide has been going down since the end of World War II.
Mass Murder is a term used to refer to events where a government indiscriminately kills any individual or groups of individuals.
Soft-Kill Democide Theories:
Many people believe that there is a depopulation effort being quietly carried out by globalists. These efforts involve forced population control that while it does not involve directly murdering living individuals, it does prevent the birth of or terminate new lives.
Mass sterilization and procreation control through required birth control implants and forced abortions.
Vaccines have long been debated due to a recording which was made where a Merck scientist openly states that vaccines provided to Americans had been contaminated with cancer viruses and leukemia, which will result in the death of 1 in 3 Americans.
Chemtrails which are streaks of what looks similar to jet spray in the sky, have long been believed to be government attempts at poisoning the population under the guise of stemming global warming. Chemtrails containing aluminum oxide, barium salts, strontium, and some say possibly even the cancer virus known as SV-40.
Listen to this first-hand account from Kristen Meghan, who was in the Airforce as an industrial hygienist and an environmental specialist who tracked the health hazards that pilots may have been exposed to during their service:
or this one from Ted L. Gunderson, former FBI Chief in Charge followed after his death by his doctor and a colleague, both of whom speak to the fact that they believe he died of bladder cancer that was a direct result of arsenic poisoning.
Toxic Fluoride (a component of bug poison that harms body, mind, and teeth). Though some experts will discount toxic fluoride based on the low levels, what they don’t say is that even minor amounts of fluoride can be damaging you are exposed to those levels from multiple sources on a regular basis. It all adds up and that build up over time can have damaging effects on the human body.
There is growing evidence that a democide event may be planned for the United States that appears to be similar to Pinochet’s terrorist regime. Pinochet came into power in Chile as a result of a coup that is believed to have been sponsored by the CIA. During his reign, 40,000 people were detained as political prisoners and many more simply went missing.
A little time spent on the Internet will reveal video documentation of FEMA camps which appear to be completely set up and ready to receive citizens in need. The only problem with this scenario is that these “camps” are complete with armed guards, high fencing, and barbed wire, which seems to be more preparation to keep people contained inside against their will.
Democide events are still happening today. In 2015, over 4,000 Christian people were killed in church attacks throughout Nigeria. Christians in Nigeria are suffering persecution from the Muslim religious and political elite dominating Northern Nigerian government, Muslim Fulani herdsman, and Boko Haram.
Isis overtook the Iraqi Northern region in August 2014. During this process thousands of people, among them approximately 1,800 girls, were taken as sex slaves. The Yazidi women have had their children taken from them, women have been raped, they have been bought and sold.
Several days ago, 19 of the girls, who refused to submit to sex with their ISIS captors, were burned alive in front of hundreds of witnesses.
So what steps can you take to prepare for further incidents of democide?
- Refuse to participate in any violence other than legitimate self-defense. Do not condone or otherwise support hate, violence, or fighting.
- Research the bloodline of all our leading politicians. Then share your findings regarding the true lineage and goals of these New World Order politicians.
- Be certain that you monitor and truly understand what your children are being taught in their schools. Many public schools are teaching children to blindly obey authority. While rules and laws have their benefits and blatant law breaking for the sake of it should not be encouraged, blind obedience is not healthy either.
- Teach your children to have an informed and balanced respect for authority, not a blind one.
- Provide them with education and experiences that are diverse.
- Ensure that your own behavior models adult responsibility for them.
- Share your beliefs and values with those closest to you and start planning for ways to disconnect as much as possible from any dependence on government for your livelihood and well-being.
- Pay attention to attacks and persecution that is happening around the world and do not let these democide events go unnoticed or unchallenged.
It is estimated that throughout the 20th Century, all over the world, approximately 100 million people have been the victims of democide. People killed by their own government. We’ve only touched the surface with this article. This is both a tragic and shameful practice that simply must be stopped. The only way to do that is to educate people about what is happening and what to do about it.
Had you heard the term Democide prior to reading this article?
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Sunday, June 12, 2016
Saturday, June 11, 2016
Friday, June 10, 2016
GNU Radio for Space (and Aircraft)
GOMX-3 is a CubeSat with several payloads. One of them is a software defined radio configured to read ADS-B signals sent by commercial aircraft. The idea is that a satellite can monitor aircraft over oceans and other places where there no RADAR coverage. ADB-S transmits the aircraft’s ID, its position, altitude, and intent.
The problem is that ADS-B has a short-range (about 80 nautical miles). GOMX-1 proved that the signals can be captured from orbit. GOMX-3 has more capability. The satellite has a helical antenna and an FPGA.
The people behind the satellite, GomSpace, has a complete parser for the ADS-B data beacons and [destevez] has it rolled into a GNU Radio module. There’s a good representation of captured data on a map in [destevez’s] blog post. If you want something less interactive, you can see a static map of all collected data. If you want to try your hand at picking up GOMX-3, you can hear it transmitting in the video below.
We’ve talked a lot about CubeSats in the past and ADS-B monitoring (the link is broken, but the video still works). If you want a GNU Radio primer, we’ve done that, too.
Filed under: radio hacks
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Thursday, June 9, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | Pineal gland activation w/magnet experiment
Walter Rawls conducted a similar experiment and had pretty substantial results, to find a link to that, just google: "walter rawls pineal gland magnet"
The first link will be an article about it.
If you have any questions, or suggestions, let me know.
I'm making vlogs every day for this, I can't post the URL's yet. After 7 days I'll be able to though.
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Wednesday, June 8, 2016
Lucid Dreaming | Internal or external awareness?
My question is.....whats the more likely approach the gaining lucidity.....internal awareness or external awareness? I am thinking towards practising external due to the fact that it will help me in dreams notice alot more things i dont usualy notice such as the obv you hear about...*i was at home but it wasnt home* etc.
I cannot see how internal awareness can gain lucidity any thoughts or opinions? Thanx =)
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Surviving a Dog Attack
by Nicholas
A fun, relaxing day in the park can quickly turn into a nightmare if you’re ever threatened or attacked by an unfriendly dog. If an attack were to happen, would you know how to react and how to treat yourself after you have been wounded? And even more importantly, do you know how to avoid or defuse such a situation?
These are just a few of the questions that we are going to answer in this article. Dog attacks are really a bigger threat than you realize. Yes, the overwhelming majority of dogs (including the intimidating looking ones) are not scary or aggressive. In fact, if a dog does attack you, chances are good it’s because they are trying to defend their owner or what they believe is their territory.
Nonetheless, millions of people in the United States alone are the victims of dog attacks, and a significant percentage of those people are injured severely enough to require medical attention. Knowing how to handle a dog attack is not just something that you should do for your own safety, but for the safety of your family as well.
AVOIDING A DOG ATTACK
Obviously the best way to survive a dog attack is to avoid a dog attack in the first place. It could also be that the dog you believe is threatening you is actually not threatening you at all. Sometimes it can be difficult to tell if a dog is being aggressive or if they are just playing around. Yes, some breeds are well known for being more likely to attack than others, but that doesn’t mean that all dogs of that breed are that way.
There are some things that you should look for in a dog that denote aggression. For example, a dog whose ears are angled back, with teeth bared and growling, is showing classic dog aggression. In contrast to this, a dog that is barking, with elevated ears could just want to play.
Also pay attention to the dog’s body. Is the dog relaxed with a curve in their spine, or are they stiff and uptight with their entire body aligned together? The latter option is a good indicator that the dog is not in a friendly mood.
Some people also believe that a dog, particularly a large dog, running towards them signals aggression. This is not true at all. It is true, yes, that a dog charging at you after having displayed the above behaviors could be aggressive, but then again a dog could just be running at you because they want to sniff you and play. A dog that is simply running towards you is never a good indicator on its own of whether or not they are being aggressive.
Let’s say that you have encountered a dog that is demonstrating the aggressive behaviors we just described to you. Does this mean that the dog is absolutely going to attack you and you will need to defend yourself? Not necessarily. You can still try to defuse the situation in more than one way.
The best thing you can do to defuse the situation is to avoid teasing or irritating the dog. Many dog breeds are incredibly protective over their property and people, and acting in a teasing manner only makes them more likely to regard you as a threat and attack.
Do not turn and run. If you do, the dog will almost certainly chase after you because of their instinct to chase animals. Furthermore, it’s virtually impossible for you to outrun a dog. They will catch up to you in seconds and then you’re really in trouble.
Rather than run away, simply stay where you are and stand still. Even if the dog approaches you, you still shouldn’t move. Allow the dog to approach and sniff you.
DO NOT:
- make any movements with your limbs; if you do, the dog will take it as a sign of aggression on your part and attack.
- make eye contact with the dog, or they will take it as a challenge.
- shout or make loud noises, or they will view it as you trying to assert your dominance over them.
Another trick that you can use is to distract them with an object. If you have treats or food on you, great, but anything that a dog would like to chew on will work. The obvious risk to this method is that it involves moving your arms, which a dog could see as a threatening action on your part. Move very slowly and clearly display the object you have so the dog can see it. Then, throw the object away from you and hope that the dog goes after it.
Hopefully, these methods will work allowing you to turn and walk away, and you can go about your normal business. Avoiding or defusing an aggressive dog is always a safer option that fighting the dog head on. Nonetheless, dogs can still be unpredictable creatures at times, and you can never take for granted that any of these methods will for sure work. With that in mind, let’s learn how you should defend yourself if you are indeed attacked.
HOW TO DEFEND YOURSELF FROM AN ATTACKING DOG
Once the dog begins to attack you, you need to defend yourself immediately. Defend the vulnerable areas on your body and strike back at the dog at its vulnerable areas and weak points. The best areas to strike on the dog are the throat and the back of their neck and head. If you hit the dog hard enough, it can stun them long enough for you to pull yourself away from the fight and to get to safety.
Use any weapons that you have on you or that you can find. Weapons will especially come in handy if you are having to defend yourself from more than one dog. If you have a gun, knife, or pepper spray on you, great, but don’t hesitate to grab a stick or a rock too if you have to.
Again, strike the dog at the vulnerable parts of their body like the throat and back of the head if you have a blunt weapon. If you have a sharp bladed weapon such as a knife, the best places to slice or stab the dog are in the throat, eyes, and jaw muscles. If you hit, slice, or stab them in the body, it can only make the dog angrier and cause them to intensify their attack.
While you are defending yourself from the dog, you should shout for help. At this point a raised voice is going to have no effect on the dog one way or the other and you should use it to gain the attention of anyone nearby.
Even if you’re a dog person, you cannot show any mercy when defending yourself. Treat defending yourself from a dog just as if you were defending yourself from another person. Dog attacks can be fatal and several people do die from dog attacks each year. Don’t hurt the dog if it is not necessary, but if the attack is serious and your life is in danger, you need to use as much force as required to end the fight and stop the attack.
While you are fighting the dog, it’s also important that you keep yourself protected as much as possible. If you have a jacket, wrap it around your defensive arm. It will help minimize the effect of the dog’s bite and could distract them long enough for you to either get away or deliver a fight ending blow.
The specific parts of your body that you will want to protect are your throat, face, chest, and stomach. These regions become only more vulnerable if the dog manages to knock you off your feet. You can’t let the dog to inflict enough damage to these places of the body because if they do, you will be severely injured and stand less of a chance of adequately defending yourself.
If the fight has turned to the dog’s favor and your defensive blows appear to be useless, the best thing that you can do then is to roll your front and curl your limbs and head inwards. The dog’s attack likely won’t end, but it could provide you with enough time until help arrives and protect the vital areas of your body in the process.
AFTER THE ATTACK
After the attack has happened, you must immediately attend to any wounds that you sustain. Even the smallest of open wounds are enough to invite an infection, which can be a real killer even in a non-disaster or non-wilderness survival situation.
Once you have identified a wound, immediately apply pressure with a cloth or a piece of your clothing to stop or at least slow down the bleeding. Use clean water to wash out the wound and then dress it with a sterile bandage, gauze pad, or a large wrapping.
It’s a good idea to seek professional medical help for any dog attack wounds even if you believe that you’ve successfully treated the wound yourself. The primary reason for seeking medical help is to fully prevent an infection from setting in. Yes, it is possible to prevent an infection on your own, but if you don’t want to take any chances, you must see a medical professional.
Keep in mind that many doctors have likely had to deal with patients who were the victims of dog attacks before, so they will know exactly how to treat you. You should absolutely seek professional medical help if you are unable to stop the bleeding or if a bone has been fractured as a result of the attack.
Something that may be on your mind after the dog has attacked you is whether or not it has rabies. The best way to find this out is to contact the authorities and alert them to what has happened. If the dog has also survived the attack and run away, it’s a major threat to any other innocent people walking about and the authorities need to catch it.
Once the dog has been caught, the authorities will test it for diseases. They will then let you know if the dog had rabies or any diseases, and if so, you will be sent to a hospital to be treated.
CONCLUSION
After the dog attack is over and you have been medically treated, the only thing left for you to do is to handle the legal aspects of the attack if a dog owner was involved. You don’t have to take legal action if you don’t want to, but if you feel that the owner’s negligence caused the attack, you can do so. Be careful to read up on the dog attack laws relevant to your state if you choose to do so.
In summary, dog attacks are a much bigger issue than many people realize and you don’t want to find yourself as the unfortunate victim of one. Very few dogs are aggressive but those that are can inflict serious damage and even kill you in the worst of circumstances.
Always try to avoid or defuse an aggressive dog so that you can avoid an attack all together, but if the dog does attack, use the defensive tips that we learned about in this article by striking the vulnerable and weak points of the dog while protecting yourself. Immediately alert the authorities after the attack so they can prevent the dog from attacking anyone else and give you proper medical attention.
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